A few routes in the sun and weather chasing all week.

Tuesday 11th I was in Glasgow for varying reasons but managed to hook up with a friend and climber Kevin Woods. We chatted about options and possible venues to get on some routes quickly and get some mileage on rock. We thought about inside at GCC but that would have be all sorts of wrong with the weather being so nice plus I had been there the previous evening to get pumped on some brilliant technical routes in the back corner, (6b,6b+,6c I think). After some chat we decided to go and have a look at Dunglass. We found that even after 3 days of dry and glorious weather that the routes we were after (sport) were still dripping. So another plan was quickly hatched, although I was enjoying the social wander in spring time sunlight I really wanted to get on some rock. Kevs local knowledge of his area is second to none and as we chatted all things climbing we decided to head for Auchinstarry Quarry. This venue is very much roadside cragging, not what I am use to at all. Fall out the car and your at the base of routes. We arrived as a group was finishing a session and another party was just getting started at top roping some interesting and hard looking route. A minor flaw in our plan was the lack of gear for trad but luckily kev knew the other party and I had a mix of cams and extenders that thankfully I had forgotten to remove after a previous trip. Kev pointed me in the direction of some routes to warm up on and we went at it. Pleasant climbing in hot sunshine.........was this really Scotland?

Myself(James) route Scream, Severe.

We climbed and chatted with other party, sharing Beta and laughs while enjoying the routes on offer. A very social affair with the sun at our backs. 

Routes climbed;

Scream - S

Promontory Direct - HVS

Nijinski - E5,6a

After a very good few days enjoying city culture and the climbing on offer it was time to head back to the Highlands and home. The drive on the a82 up Loch Lomond side and then through Glencoe is always impressive especially at 0700hrs on a day like Wednesday was, but this journey was also more........... while driving enjoying the views I had moment after moment of realisations that I was going home, and this was where I wanted to be, this is where I belong. Its been almost exactly 3 years since I made the decision to move up and live here permanently, a decision I am so thankful and happy I made. 

Its not been easy. To move away and leave so many memories, family, friends and work behind was challenging but in the time away I have learned a lot. I've made life long friends in what feels like 5 minutes, experienced highs, lows, hard times, good times and whole lot of climbing times. 

After a very enjoyable, nostalgic music appreciating and self contemplating drive back up to Fort William, I had to go to work. Which saw me spend most of the day indoors working at a computer or face to face with young people. This was difficult to stomach to say the least as it was a beautiful day outside and all I wanted to do was soak up the sun and enjoy the blue skies and views all around. I did manage to get out on an entertaining walk along the shore front for 30mins to collect stones for a future art project. Watch this space.........

One of the many stunning views on my doorstep.

When I finished work I made a quick call to Alfie and said lets go climbing, he had pre empted this by packing his climbing bag before going to work. I picked him up and we made a dash for project X. Psyched and buzzing from the glorious weather and the exciting prospect of trying new lines in the dry was almost to much! Also I had been awake from 0600, driven from Glasgow and also been at work. I was tired but had to get on this rock, with the day slipping away we set up a top rope and had a bash at our individual lines. THEY WERE AMAZING!!!! Although on a rope, the climbing is relatively hard and thin but flows and feels brilliant. We were so psyched by this that we got very carried away and started all kinds of daft chat, we packed up after a few attempts of each, on the walk out Alfie said he may go for the lead next time around............to be continued.  

Thursday 13th was a wash out on the west coast so we took a gamble and drove to Dunkeld. What a good punt this turned out to be. Polney crag was almost completely dry with a few minor streaks on some routes. Alfie has his SPA assessment soon and has such strong enthusiasm for climbing. We geared up and headed for the classic Cuticle Crack, Severe **. A brilliant route which Alfie led and a good start to the day. After we abseiled down Hairy Gully we headed over to Kestrel Crack,Severe ** and my lead. This is another fantastic route with bomber gear and great situations. It starts up a large crack that thins out up a slab. Onto a ledge with a brilliant thread runner just before moving up a steep wall on superb holds to the large flake. I became a bit stuck here with a high left foot and a massive rock over needed. I looked for alternatives but this awkward move eventually happened. Had bomber gear so was enjoying the movement. After this route we the went up to upper crag and Alfie led a route called The Trap, HVS 5b **. This was an entertaining route that required a real fight to get up. Good gear that was tested, and after a lot of laughs, abuse and motivation the route was climbed.

Alfie on Cuticle Crack, Severe**

A good day trad climbing was finished off by a quick hit at Bennybeg near Crieff. We went seeing as it was en route home for a few hours to gain some fore arm pump and clip a few bolts for fun. We ended up climbing well into darkness on routes at grade 4,5,5+ & 6a with the moon lighting up the crag, so we had been climbing all day and made a good mess of our arms and fingers time for another drive up the a82! 

On the lead, Kestrel Crack,S**. Looking at big flake

Today I spent some time preparing for up coming work and had a chance to visit some local areas. I also managed to get psyched up enough to train at Calluna and I am glad I did. I really want to improve my climbing in general and I guess motivating myself for getting a basic fitness and strength level is required. Alfie's infectious enthusiasm got me to Kimbers bouldering wall and then carried me through the initial pain and struggle. Once in a rhythm and pattern of training the motivation and desire to push it came and I enjoyed the sets and reps of moves, lapping and using finger board and campus board. I aim to climb more than I train but every little helps

A quick silly selfie on lead. Just for laughs

Alfie on The Trap HVS 5b **

CLIMBING