Wet Wet West.

After setting foot in snow last Friday the rain and warm temperatures returned and have striped what snow there was.

Last week saw me spend a 4 days working inside at Ice Factor, which I was quite glad of. The shifts I worked saw me running taster rock & ice sessions and hit the ice lessons. I also put my hand to some route setting as well.



On Friday 15th Joe, Rich and myself went for a day on the hill, for them to practice hill skills and ML prep. I went for the jolly and fitness side of things and boy did the day not disappoint.

Rich either checking timings or timing Joe?
Good slick skills from the lads, made my day easy.

We set of  nice and early again and drove up to Kilfinnan at Loch Lochy as the pair of Munros near there none of us had been up.

Smiles all round o the summit.

We were off from the car at a leisurely pace around 1030, after our alpine start and aimed for a couple of gates in some fences to reach a flattening before a steady ascent onto the long ridge line that leads up and over two minor peaks before winding around to Sron a Choire Ghairbh. When we approached 600m the already blustery wind increased steadily to a rather strong breeze that became relentless which made for an entertaining part of the day. The small patches of soft snow that remain were more energy sapping than enthusiasm inducing but still nice to stomp through it at times. After a brief stop on the summit we headed for the bealach between Sron a Choire Ghairbh and Meall na Teanga from here we made the decision to head down, we'd been on the hill for a good 4 to 5 hours haveing our eyelids blown inside out and battling every step so we thought better than to continue on and be up high for any longer than necessary. The pat from the bealach down is brilliantly constructred and makes for a quick descent to the Great Glen way and back to the car, not without incident though as it seems no matter how old you get, jumping in puddles is still fun, especially when you soak everyone around you.

Winter looks to be setting in again this week as I write this, drove through sleet and snow on the way home today. Fingers crossed I can use new boots and axes ASAP!

First steps in snow eventually.

So after the pathetic and poor attempt at trying to get out on Thursday, I eventually got my rear in gear and got some motivation on Friday.

The day started very similar to Thursday with an early visit to the leisure centre for some mentoring and personal training. I then had a visit to the hospital at 10am for a 3 month check up, all good at present.

I got home at 1015 and parked up on the couch thinking about what to to do when the phone rang and a very enthusiastic friend who I haven't seen for a good few months gave me and earful of psyche and motivation down the line...........

10minutes later we were in the car and heading for Glen Nevis. Such a late start was obviously not the best but we were keen and in high spirits. I made the suggestion of doing the North ridge of Stob Ban as I have done it plenty of times, it is relatively straight forward and quick with numerous options from the top of the ridge. With my proposal accepted we went for it. We made good time up the lower slopes and reached the gate in the deer fence within 30mins of leaving the car, not bad but we left the car at 1120, not an ideal or typical winter start time but we trodged on with juvenile whoops and shouts.

On the lower slopes, wet and soggy.

As we broke onto the lower, wide and winding section of the ridge we were hit by a hail, snow and sleet  forced by a strong wind. It was amusing and also painful at times, can only describe it as being shot with a BB gun repeatedly. The kind of pain that makes you laugh. This last for 15 mins before a break in the cloud and giiving some stunning views all around. We had also made it to the snow line by this point and were beginning to break a trail, and the high point of the ridge beckoned us on as did the fresh and untouched snow at our feet.

The view from the lower part of the N.Ridge.

We moved along the wide and winding ridge at a fair pace, admiring views up the glen and back down to Fort William, Caol and Corpach all while watching more weather moving in at a high speed. But we were suited and booted for it and continued on with determination and eagerness. 

Weather coming our way fast.

We reached the start of the interesting section of the ridge and decide to put crampons on although there was no consolidated snow or ice and the ground and turf is soggy unless exposed we thought it better to use them than not as well as getting use to moving on that kind of ground in them again.

Alfie setting off on the fun stuff. 

We moved through the broken and scrambling ground in proper soft and deep early season powder and had great fun in doing so, as we 

got onto the crest of the ridge the view across to Glencoe and Ballachulish became the back drop, with cracking clouds, sunlight and colours before us. Looking down to the left from the ridge, or east I noticed a lot of snow debris and slide marks, I looked, wondered and began to make out what has obviously been a big movement of snow, the avalanche had been very recent but exactly when I don't know.  

Approaching the crest

Avalanche debris

Reaching the end of the ridge we had options on what to do, it was just coming up for 1400hrs, we made haste and went for the long walk round Mullach nan Coirean. In hindsight maybe should have picked an easier option but it was well worth the slog. We pushed ourselves on with laughter and slander and reached the summit of Mullach nan Coirean at 1600hrs. The plod round the connecting ridge gave some cracking views and we were hit by repeated snow flurries and strong winds but this made for an all round adventure that I wasn't expecting to have on the day. We descended down the rib that takes you to a styled fence singing a random array of songs and admiring the sights around. We made it back to the car by 1830 and were completely knackered. But satisfied with the day and excited for more. 

Very happy to be out, and the first winter day out done. Fingers crossed in continues as its started, weather wise and not my shocking first day attempt. Today has wiped that from memory already though!

Psyche washed off.....

Today was suppose to be first day out in Scottish winter for me today. I didn't even make it out of the car park this morning.

After an early start that saw me spend an 1.5 hours at the pool this morning in a new found role as a mentor and coach for an individual who has potential to compete in the commonwealth games, not 2014 on home soil sadly but 2018 if keeps up the good work.

I drove up to Torlundy with the thought of doing CMD, the arete and up onto Ben Nevis. The drive would have been easier in a rib or any other floating motorised vehicle but still I drove on. Thoughts of snow under foot had me dreaming and I wasn't really taking in what was actually going on outside. The rain was incessant, my wipers were on epileptic and my music was loud! When I pulled in to the north face car park and turned the engine an music of I belted out the final words to the song that was just on..................
Then I realised it was proper grim outside, like the kinda day that as soon as you get out the car some one chucks a bucket of water over you and that's that. I sat in the car in turmoil, thoughts of what to do, can I be arsed, is it worth it, what else, where else, where's the psyche gone. After what was a rather long time I did get out the car and started to waterproof up, with the voices arguing, "its not that bad, you'll enjoy it when you get going" and the likes, I got my boots on, and even one gaiter, by this time I'd had at least 4 or 5 buckets of water over my head and I still had some faffing to do. "SOD This" I jumped back in the car and gave up, the over powering voices of laziness and de-motivating attitude had won. Plus it really was grim this morning, still is as I write this.

The day was not lost though!! I went to the gym where I put my body through its paces for punishment and even had a swim.

The idea of getting soaked and blown all over the place up there today really wasn't inspiring, attractive or motivating for first day of winter.

Need some good psyche vibes sent my way of a foot of motivation up my arse. You decide!


  

Again it starts..........

If you read my blog, thank you and apologies for the lack of writing one and keeping it up to date. There is no excuse apart form I have been extremely busy working and playing in the outdoors for all of the summer. 

Winter is almost here in the highlands at long last and the adventures are about to start. 

But, what better way to kick off the season than with The Festival of Ice at Ice Factor, Kinlochleven on the 2nd & 3rd of November. This event was a competition but all in aid of Climbers Against Cancer (CAC) 

http://www.climbersagainstcancer.org/  

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-24770633

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10202420931703388&set=a.3450644223630.167126.1196466987&type=1&theater&notif_t=like

This event was an awesome thing to be involved in, all the credit must go to Kev http://kevshieldsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/

and Conor for organising it and making it happen. Thanks to all the rest at Ice Factor for their efforts. All of the sponsors for prizes and making the event happen. 

To be involved with and participate in such an event was a great experience, the old cliché "you had to be there" is more than credible for this one. 

The event began with registration at 0830 with all climbers who were participating in the competition having to sign an agreement and statement of risk form. There was a quick briefing from organisers and then climbers given the green light to go at it! 

I started my day in the big fridge attempting to climb the routes that had been set in there. Now having worked here for the last 2 years this place was not new to me but I felt extremely out my depth and in a very new environment. But those feeling soon disappeared as the banter started flowing between all competitors. 

Now climbing competitions are nothing like any competition I have been involved before or witnessed. Every one helps each other, gives each other ideas, positive motivation and comments were flying around from the word go! Just awesome to be involved in and part of. Not to embarrass myself or others but being in the company of the majority of the participants of this event was special and humbling, as was being shouted on and cheered up the ice wall by some real inspirational climbers and mountaineers. I left the big fridge feeling higher than life but had to keep it all in and carry on competing (in the loses sense of the word btw, imagine East Fife FC Vs FC Barcelona )     

I climbed as hard as could for the rest of the day, but the lack of sleep the night before and the real sense of awe plus wanting to watch others climb I handed in my score sheet and chilled out after giving all the routes I could a good go. I wasn't there to win, I wasn't there to lose, I was there for charity and to raise awareness of CAC & cancer. 

This was the route of the day!
Gabi Tomescu  www.photography-gt.com

Joe and myself having a chat.
Gabi Tomescu  www.photography-gt.com

The lady's representing CAC were two of the nicest, friendliest and chatty women I've had the pleasure talking to, they listened to my story and shared so many positive words about the charity and the cause throughout the day that it made perfect sense to tell them that for every point I score today I will donate a pound. They were so appreciative of what I felt was not so much, a solid 37 points, So I rounded it up to £40 out my pocket, there and then. The event raised around £2000 for CAC, this is a phenomenal effort as climbers are renowned for being skint!    

Gabi Tomescu    www.photography-gt.com

Personal highlights of the day for me was meeting new people and making friends, being given support from my girl friend and here family as well as everyone involved throughout the day.  Watching and helping out with all the finals, but also belaying for the men's final, this was maybe the best part of the day for me. 

Belaying for Greg Boswell in Final
www.photography-gt.com

Belaying in final for Ewan Roger
www.photography-gt.com

                                                                                                                 

Other events happened over the weekend, with Simon Yearsley giving a fascinating talk on new winter routing and Scotland. Inspirational and motivational to say the least. Dave Macleod gave just as good a talk and insight into his climbing in winter in Scotland. Both talks were really catching and you didn't want to miss a word or image. They both gave a real insight into Scotland's climbing and how it deserves its world wide status and how it will keep it!

This was the first ever FESTIVAL OF ICE in Scotland but fingers crossed it will not be the last. I will be involved if asked again! 

Cheers