Wet Wet West.

After setting foot in snow last Friday the rain and warm temperatures returned and have striped what snow there was.

Last week saw me spend a 4 days working inside at Ice Factor, which I was quite glad of. The shifts I worked saw me running taster rock & ice sessions and hit the ice lessons. I also put my hand to some route setting as well.



On Friday 15th Joe, Rich and myself went for a day on the hill, for them to practice hill skills and ML prep. I went for the jolly and fitness side of things and boy did the day not disappoint.

Rich either checking timings or timing Joe?
Good slick skills from the lads, made my day easy.

We set of  nice and early again and drove up to Kilfinnan at Loch Lochy as the pair of Munros near there none of us had been up.

Smiles all round o the summit.

We were off from the car at a leisurely pace around 1030, after our alpine start and aimed for a couple of gates in some fences to reach a flattening before a steady ascent onto the long ridge line that leads up and over two minor peaks before winding around to Sron a Choire Ghairbh. When we approached 600m the already blustery wind increased steadily to a rather strong breeze that became relentless which made for an entertaining part of the day. The small patches of soft snow that remain were more energy sapping than enthusiasm inducing but still nice to stomp through it at times. After a brief stop on the summit we headed for the bealach between Sron a Choire Ghairbh and Meall na Teanga from here we made the decision to head down, we'd been on the hill for a good 4 to 5 hours haveing our eyelids blown inside out and battling every step so we thought better than to continue on and be up high for any longer than necessary. The pat from the bealach down is brilliantly constructred and makes for a quick descent to the Great Glen way and back to the car, not without incident though as it seems no matter how old you get, jumping in puddles is still fun, especially when you soak everyone around you.

Winter looks to be setting in again this week as I write this, drove through sleet and snow on the way home today. Fingers crossed I can use new boots and axes ASAP!

First steps in snow eventually.

So after the pathetic and poor attempt at trying to get out on Thursday, I eventually got my rear in gear and got some motivation on Friday.

The day started very similar to Thursday with an early visit to the leisure centre for some mentoring and personal training. I then had a visit to the hospital at 10am for a 3 month check up, all good at present.

I got home at 1015 and parked up on the couch thinking about what to to do when the phone rang and a very enthusiastic friend who I haven't seen for a good few months gave me and earful of psyche and motivation down the line...........

10minutes later we were in the car and heading for Glen Nevis. Such a late start was obviously not the best but we were keen and in high spirits. I made the suggestion of doing the North ridge of Stob Ban as I have done it plenty of times, it is relatively straight forward and quick with numerous options from the top of the ridge. With my proposal accepted we went for it. We made good time up the lower slopes and reached the gate in the deer fence within 30mins of leaving the car, not bad but we left the car at 1120, not an ideal or typical winter start time but we trodged on with juvenile whoops and shouts.

On the lower slopes, wet and soggy.

As we broke onto the lower, wide and winding section of the ridge we were hit by a hail, snow and sleet  forced by a strong wind. It was amusing and also painful at times, can only describe it as being shot with a BB gun repeatedly. The kind of pain that makes you laugh. This last for 15 mins before a break in the cloud and giiving some stunning views all around. We had also made it to the snow line by this point and were beginning to break a trail, and the high point of the ridge beckoned us on as did the fresh and untouched snow at our feet.

The view from the lower part of the N.Ridge.

We moved along the wide and winding ridge at a fair pace, admiring views up the glen and back down to Fort William, Caol and Corpach all while watching more weather moving in at a high speed. But we were suited and booted for it and continued on with determination and eagerness. 

Weather coming our way fast.

We reached the start of the interesting section of the ridge and decide to put crampons on although there was no consolidated snow or ice and the ground and turf is soggy unless exposed we thought it better to use them than not as well as getting use to moving on that kind of ground in them again.

Alfie setting off on the fun stuff. 

We moved through the broken and scrambling ground in proper soft and deep early season powder and had great fun in doing so, as we 

got onto the crest of the ridge the view across to Glencoe and Ballachulish became the back drop, with cracking clouds, sunlight and colours before us. Looking down to the left from the ridge, or east I noticed a lot of snow debris and slide marks, I looked, wondered and began to make out what has obviously been a big movement of snow, the avalanche had been very recent but exactly when I don't know.  

Approaching the crest

Avalanche debris

Reaching the end of the ridge we had options on what to do, it was just coming up for 1400hrs, we made haste and went for the long walk round Mullach nan Coirean. In hindsight maybe should have picked an easier option but it was well worth the slog. We pushed ourselves on with laughter and slander and reached the summit of Mullach nan Coirean at 1600hrs. The plod round the connecting ridge gave some cracking views and we were hit by repeated snow flurries and strong winds but this made for an all round adventure that I wasn't expecting to have on the day. We descended down the rib that takes you to a styled fence singing a random array of songs and admiring the sights around. We made it back to the car by 1830 and were completely knackered. But satisfied with the day and excited for more. 

Very happy to be out, and the first winter day out done. Fingers crossed in continues as its started, weather wise and not my shocking first day attempt. Today has wiped that from memory already though!

Psyche washed off.....

Today was suppose to be first day out in Scottish winter for me today. I didn't even make it out of the car park this morning.

After an early start that saw me spend an 1.5 hours at the pool this morning in a new found role as a mentor and coach for an individual who has potential to compete in the commonwealth games, not 2014 on home soil sadly but 2018 if keeps up the good work.

I drove up to Torlundy with the thought of doing CMD, the arete and up onto Ben Nevis. The drive would have been easier in a rib or any other floating motorised vehicle but still I drove on. Thoughts of snow under foot had me dreaming and I wasn't really taking in what was actually going on outside. The rain was incessant, my wipers were on epileptic and my music was loud! When I pulled in to the north face car park and turned the engine an music of I belted out the final words to the song that was just on..................
Then I realised it was proper grim outside, like the kinda day that as soon as you get out the car some one chucks a bucket of water over you and that's that. I sat in the car in turmoil, thoughts of what to do, can I be arsed, is it worth it, what else, where else, where's the psyche gone. After what was a rather long time I did get out the car and started to waterproof up, with the voices arguing, "its not that bad, you'll enjoy it when you get going" and the likes, I got my boots on, and even one gaiter, by this time I'd had at least 4 or 5 buckets of water over my head and I still had some faffing to do. "SOD This" I jumped back in the car and gave up, the over powering voices of laziness and de-motivating attitude had won. Plus it really was grim this morning, still is as I write this.

The day was not lost though!! I went to the gym where I put my body through its paces for punishment and even had a swim.

The idea of getting soaked and blown all over the place up there today really wasn't inspiring, attractive or motivating for first day of winter.

Need some good psyche vibes sent my way of a foot of motivation up my arse. You decide!


  

Again it starts..........

If you read my blog, thank you and apologies for the lack of writing one and keeping it up to date. There is no excuse apart form I have been extremely busy working and playing in the outdoors for all of the summer. 

Winter is almost here in the highlands at long last and the adventures are about to start. 

But, what better way to kick off the season than with The Festival of Ice at Ice Factor, Kinlochleven on the 2nd & 3rd of November. This event was a competition but all in aid of Climbers Against Cancer (CAC) 

http://www.climbersagainstcancer.org/  

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-24770633

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10202420931703388&set=a.3450644223630.167126.1196466987&type=1&theater&notif_t=like

This event was an awesome thing to be involved in, all the credit must go to Kev http://kevshieldsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/

and Conor for organising it and making it happen. Thanks to all the rest at Ice Factor for their efforts. All of the sponsors for prizes and making the event happen. 

To be involved with and participate in such an event was a great experience, the old cliché "you had to be there" is more than credible for this one. 

The event began with registration at 0830 with all climbers who were participating in the competition having to sign an agreement and statement of risk form. There was a quick briefing from organisers and then climbers given the green light to go at it! 

I started my day in the big fridge attempting to climb the routes that had been set in there. Now having worked here for the last 2 years this place was not new to me but I felt extremely out my depth and in a very new environment. But those feeling soon disappeared as the banter started flowing between all competitors. 

Now climbing competitions are nothing like any competition I have been involved before or witnessed. Every one helps each other, gives each other ideas, positive motivation and comments were flying around from the word go! Just awesome to be involved in and part of. Not to embarrass myself or others but being in the company of the majority of the participants of this event was special and humbling, as was being shouted on and cheered up the ice wall by some real inspirational climbers and mountaineers. I left the big fridge feeling higher than life but had to keep it all in and carry on competing (in the loses sense of the word btw, imagine East Fife FC Vs FC Barcelona )     

I climbed as hard as could for the rest of the day, but the lack of sleep the night before and the real sense of awe plus wanting to watch others climb I handed in my score sheet and chilled out after giving all the routes I could a good go. I wasn't there to win, I wasn't there to lose, I was there for charity and to raise awareness of CAC & cancer. 

This was the route of the day!
Gabi Tomescu  www.photography-gt.com

Joe and myself having a chat.
Gabi Tomescu  www.photography-gt.com

The lady's representing CAC were two of the nicest, friendliest and chatty women I've had the pleasure talking to, they listened to my story and shared so many positive words about the charity and the cause throughout the day that it made perfect sense to tell them that for every point I score today I will donate a pound. They were so appreciative of what I felt was not so much, a solid 37 points, So I rounded it up to £40 out my pocket, there and then. The event raised around £2000 for CAC, this is a phenomenal effort as climbers are renowned for being skint!    

Gabi Tomescu    www.photography-gt.com

Personal highlights of the day for me was meeting new people and making friends, being given support from my girl friend and here family as well as everyone involved throughout the day.  Watching and helping out with all the finals, but also belaying for the men's final, this was maybe the best part of the day for me. 

Belaying for Greg Boswell in Final
www.photography-gt.com

Belaying in final for Ewan Roger
www.photography-gt.com

                                                                                                                 

Other events happened over the weekend, with Simon Yearsley giving a fascinating talk on new winter routing and Scotland. Inspirational and motivational to say the least. Dave Macleod gave just as good a talk and insight into his climbing in winter in Scotland. Both talks were really catching and you didn't want to miss a word or image. They both gave a real insight into Scotland's climbing and how it deserves its world wide status and how it will keep it!

This was the first ever FESTIVAL OF ICE in Scotland but fingers crossed it will not be the last. I will be involved if asked again! 

Cheers 

      

This is a major catch up catch up.

Where have the last four months gone?

February (the month of Marks) did continue like it started, the weather was incredible. Climbing conditions were fantastic and lots got done.

Mark Warner and myself climbed Crowberry gully,IV on the 21st. Brilliant route on the Buachaille Etive Mor.

Mr Warner sending it

Looking back down crowberry gully,I

    

23rd & 24th were spent with Mark Budd, introducing him to winter mountaineering. We spent the 23rd in Coire na Tulaich on the Buachaille, we went up and down the gully's to the right of the col. Steep and calf burning to say the least. The 24th we went up the east ridge of Beinn a'Choarainn,I/II. This was the beginning of a list of ascents of this route. 2 quality days out with a mate who had no experience prior but left Fort William with an idea of what, where, and how to get more experience.

Mark on Old Wall, VS 4b***

25th Mark chambers and myself went full speed after lectures up Glen nevis and went to the easy access Cavalry crack buttress. Old wall, VS 4b*** was climbed, then the last pitch of Heatwave, MS**.


27th saw the same pairing of Mark Chambers and myself head to cavalry crack buttress again, this time the 1st pitch of Heatwave,MS** and 2nd pitch of Storm, HVS.

Me(James) on Heatwave, MS**

The last day of February was spent on the west face of Aonach mor going through winter climbing, tactics, techniques and scenarios with Mark and Scott. It was a very productive day in which personal skills were consolidated and improved. Especially enjoyed the little ice steps we found to practice on.

The first day of March was spent on Tower ridge,IV.  This was a progression from previous day in which we put into practice everything we knew as well as learning more. Moving together and speed is the key to big long routes such as TR. We made the most of having Scott to learn from. We only moved so far up TR before retracing steps and then abseiling into the Douglas boulder gap. Not bad for a couple of days at uni.........

This is studying, honest!

There was a couple of days spent playing on small rocks doing some bouldering because of the vast number of days consecutively on the hill, i learned fast that this is a type of climbing that a) im even more terrible at than others b) it is a very lazy day except for maybe 60secs of effort and 3) im to heavy for it. Going to stick to big routes.

8th of March, Rich Bowman, Kate Wilson and Myself went Munro bagging, we went for the Glenfinnan horse shoe and bagged one summit Sgurr nan Coirechan, but had to cut the day short because of work commitments. A good day all round with good company. May have put Kate of hill walking forever though! 

9th of March, Ailsa and myself attempted the Munro Sgurr A'Mhaoraich. We were both blown of our feet at around 700m so decided to high tail it back down the hill and wander around lower down. Had some interesting encounters with Stags as well.

After this day march went by in a blur of lectures, essay's, reports and studying(real studying) 

April was busy one. UKCC level 1 training and assessment, TCL assessment prep and the assessment, SPA training as well as working, studying and finding the time to get out and play. Its a hard life being here in the outdoor capital of the UK, its not all fun and games.   

May was a month in which stress levels went up and down like a yo-yo while trying to get everything done and dusted for uni while also getting in as much training, climbing and hill days in prep for a trip to Morocco. 

Enjoyed my first experience of climbing at Creag Dubh, Oh my god!!! Steep, in your face and a pump-fest. Went over there with JB and Rich P. Massive learning experience and very social day. Got 3 cracking routes in; Tree Hee, S**, King Bee,VS 5a*** & Phellatio, HVS 5a**. Awesome day and very grateful for the experience.

Ailsa and me spent a soggy day on Beinn Teallach on the 11th, her 2nd Munro and my 94th. A very wet and foul day weather wise but enjoyed the slog and lack of visibility in the company of the Pink lady of the hill.

Morocco was the big event for May, Spent 7 days trekking in the High Atlas mountains with 11 other students and 2 staff members. An inspirational week in an environment that tested me, physically, mentally and emotionally in ways that I have not experienced either in a very long time or never before. 

We had to acclimatize pretty fast but were not pushing ourselves hard for the first 2 days of the trip. I personally found this rather difficult because of my desire to do as much as possible all the time. Sitting doing nothing in the sun doing nothing was not new to me but it was very testing of my patience or lack of it! I fully understood why we sat around for hours wasting the afternoon by the 3rd day of the trip! Which included 5am start, 13 hours, approx. 1300m of ascent, some technical ground and ice, 15 to 20 degrees heat and reaching a 4045m summit. Brutal is the only word to describe the day but it was well worth it. Day four was a little more relaxed and day 5 we summit-ed Toubkal, 4167m. Day 6 we trekked out of the mountains and after one more mountain meal we found ourselves in Marrakesh, a city that needs to be visited to fully understand its chaos. We flew back to Manchester and landed ant 0025hrs. I started work at 1000hrs that day.

Me on the summit of Toubkal. 

Its now 13th of June and this month I have already been up Curved ridge,3. twice. Climbed routes at numerous crags and buttress' up glen nevis, been out on the hill 4 times, been bolt clipping at bennybeg and have just climbed up Central south west buttress on Meall an T-Suidhe.....

8th of June Ailsa and Graham took on curved ridge with me. It was a cracking day with little wind. After the hour and a bit walk in we geared up and got on the route. The buachaille was busy, with many teams on the ridge and routes on rannoch wall. We saw a team on January jigsaw, Agag's groove and CrowBerry ridge. A very social day out, Ailsa's first scrambling experience and 3rd Munro summit went well with a quote I wont forget "I enjoyed that better than walking" I really appreciated both Ailsa & Graham's(Ailsa' Dad) trust and confidence in me. I felt very relaxed and in control on a day that i put the pressure on myself. The pink lady of the hill was out and making easy work of the Grade 3 scrambling. More of the same for the summer i think

Roll on the rest of the summer, and keeping this blog updated regularly. He says again.....................Cheers for now 

James    

  

February, started so positively. Can I keep it up?

February 2nd. Ratho E.I.C.A. Largest indoor climbing facility in the UK (and the world?) I sat my CWA assessment. Climbing Wall Award. This qualification allows me to work at indoor, or man made structures designed for climbing. It is a very basic qualification at the bottom of a long ladder but its a start. Chuffed to get it done and dusted. Now to focus on the next qualification. Summer ML assessment.

I also started back at uni this month and even though I was apprehensive and unsure whether I wanted to continue I am pretty happy with the way the semester has started and the new modules I am taking. Plus there is always the practicals to keep you motivated. First practical of the academic year was missed because of work commitments but the second was not missed and I am glad I turned in for it.


Winter skills, Leadership, Decision making, Group management and a whole host of other learning points were there to be taken from the day.

The venue Coire na Tulaich, Stob Dearg, Buachille etive Mor.

Coire na Tulaich

On the slog in. 

We slogged it along the path to get onto snow as soon as possible. The banter and spirits high in a group of varying ages and experience. At the helm Mr Kirkhope MIC. We looked at decision making, when, where, why to put crampons on. Route choices, snow accumulations and safety. Found a small pocket of wind slab and demonstrated the ease of setting it off. Crampons were donned at an appropriate point and we made a bee line for some iced up rocky steps to climb on. Dream time, climbing up how ever small and benign it is, is always better than walking up. But these steps weren't just for fun, they were a really good place to look at how and why you would have to manage a group carefully on such steps and highlight the consequences of not doing so. 
The steps were not difficult climbing and require no rope but the consequences of a slip, trip or fall were very serious. As a group I want to think we were all aware of this but .........?

I took everything in my stride at the start of the day, not wanting to be cocky but to push myself harder. Moving up snow slopes, with crampons and axes is the bread and butter of winter mountaineering and I feel pretty comfortable and confident at this but it is always to good to practice and test your skills. I asked every question in my head and tried to get people to think of more by provoking them by giving tips, hints, instruction or tuition in some skills. I don't know if they took it on board as I am peer, but its still good to give as well as take in this industry. When we eventually topped out of the coire we were greated by fantastic views down Glen Etive and across "the Coe" to the "hurt lochan", Aoanch Eagach, Bidean nam Bean and the baby Buachaille. After some scenic apprecitation we commenced a saunter not far off what you see down the high street of every town in the country to the summit of Stob Dearg. Half an hour later and a couple coffee's from flasks and frozen biscuits, No starbucks or costa up there, we were admiring the splendorous sight that is Rannoch moor from a height of 1022m. This vast empty space in the highlands cant really be seen unless you get some elevation and there is no better view point than from the summit of Stob Dearg.

The vast expanse of Rannoch moor

  A couple of snaps from the ascent of coire na tulaich.

Quality

Manage this?

After some chat at 1022m and identifying layers in the snow with some blackcurrent. we headed back to the coire to descend back the way we came, This would give us all a good chance to practice some vital skills and one person in particular a real life chance to practice a skill that will save your live if you do it right and react quick enough. Fortunately the slip, trip and inevitable slide did not end badly but it could have been a lot different. A member of the group tripped and fell while descending on a steep slope of neve (hard snow ice) they slid head first to begin with before managing to turn themselves round and attempt to self arrest. They slid for roughly 100m's luckily avoiding scree, rocks and not catching a crampon and tumbling. Eye opening, and a jaw dropping reminder of how serious an environment mountains are to work and play in but the biggest thing for me was how quickly it all happened. Luckily it didn't spoil our day and gave us something to laugh about in the pub later on. A great day out that has given me a lot to think about before the next one, what ever that may be. 

Understanding the snow pack and layers with Ribena?   

    

January just flew past!

After a wee bit of an epic on "the Ben" before Christmas, I took the time I had off over the festive period to relax and contemplate way too much about that 23hrs. Christmas and new year past with out anything eventful happening with my outdoors adventures but what I did do was very worth while, enjoyable and a new experience all the same. I saw in a new year at work and I saw myself working the first week of 2013 in the Ice Factor.

I set out on the hill for the first time in 2013 on the the 10th of January, on what was not a very wintry day. It was a warm and muggy morning that was spent up at poll dubh going over some rope work and belays on DRY ROCK!! It was a bit of a strange experience to be climbing rock up the glen at the time of year but was good fun and a quick blast multi-pitching the gutter to almost the ridiculous was a good skills check and test for me and wee Camo. After a good morning wee decided to go and do "the Pap" this relatively small piece of rock is so distinctive that if you have driven on the A82 between Glencoe and Fort William you will know exactly what mound of rock I am talking about. It stands at a mere 742m above sea level, but this rather small height in altitude does not mean the pap is insignificant. Not to me anyway, this piece of rock stands proudly where every thing else around it was ground down and scraped away by tons of ice when Scotland was covered by glaciers. It is a very straight forward ascent up to the col between the Pap and Sgurr nam Fiannaidh, then there is an obvious easy line up through the steep and rocky sections but as you may have guessed, I had to find a more awkward, interesting, difficult and CLIMBING way to get up, nothing technical or requiring ropes, just a bit of a laugh and fun. Hands on rocks make me happy. After a mess about I was on top 762m could have been 7620m, the 360 panoramic views from the summit of the Pap are exquisite, the mediocre height is no reason not to blast up there.

The rest of January was more wintry but also more working! Spent 2 days climbing with the now MIC Scott Kirkhope, these 2 days were all about learning from Scott. And that I did, in fact I would say I learned more in those 2 days than I ever did at School, college or uni. but this isn't a dig at the educational system or lack of it. It is a compliment to an outstanding instructor and a stand up bloke. The first day with Scott we went to Aonach Mor, gondola up then a nice easy going plod to the patrol hut to gear up. Geared up with the masses of familiar faces and unrecognisable ones to. Abseiled of a bollard into easy gully and into the serious ground, it is a very different experience from the walking up and into winter crags, climbing. One minute your on top of it all.......the next you are surrounded by steep rocks, crags and on a snow slope that disappears into the abyss. Its a great experience, but very much like a tap on the shoulder then slapped. If you aren't switched on then it goes without saying your in the wrong place. We headed down easy gully and along the bottom of the crags, Scott all the time identifying routes and passing on as much knowledge and info as he could. We were looking for tunnel vision a grade III ice route but it wasn't in condition so next thought was morwind, III. But there was already a team on route, a quick flick through the guide book by Scott and a route was picked, "slick as fuck" was my thought. So first belay was made on Turf Walk, III,4. This route, 4 pitches all led by Scott, was awesome. My favourite day of winter climbing to date. Turf, Ice, Snow and Rock. Quality moves on hooks, front points, smearing and a lot of noise from myself! Loved every minute of it. At the end Scott's thoughts were it was harder than III,4. Maybe a IV,4 or even 5. Whatever the grade it was a mint day that couldn't even be ruined by missing the gondola back down.

Scott, showing us how its done.

Second day with Scott we went up into Stob Coire nan Lochan aka "the hurt lochan" today was all about myself and camo swinging leads as well as learning even more from Scott. Fantastic climbing in a venue that I will spend more days in for sure. Dorsal arete was the route, grade II. A belter of a route at the grade with some very airy and exposed moves through out. Exciting, experimental and adventurous learning, Needs to be in a syllabus for education!!!!

Me(james) on the final pitch of Dorsal Arete,II

After climbing we descended down broad gully, talking about avalanche awareness and all things winter and mountains. Fantastic 2 days which I will look back on fondly and also have a huge amount of thanks and appreciation to show for them.

Winter skills on a perfect winter's day. 

The next 4 days I spent shadowing, observing and being a member of a mountaineering/winter skills course that was being delivered by head honcho Pete Hyde for the first 2 days and big JB the final 2. It was a pleasant experience which gave me a good insight into 2 new completely different and contrasting styles of instructing and guiding. Day 1 was spent in the coire of Beinn a'Chaoarinn, some nav practice and sliding about the order of the day. Peg placements chucked in for good measure. Day 2 on Aoanch Mor, round the back, Nid ridge area. Rope work introduced and practiced. Day 3 a return to the "hurt lochan" psyched ! For me today was about looking at and learning about group management.  Boomerang arete, III was the route choice, it was climbed for all of one pitch before the decision to abseil of was made due to time. Day 4 a winter hill day on the Buachaille etive Beag. Navigation and leadership were the main points of the day but avalanche awareness and understanding snow movement, and accumulation featured. Winter skills were re-capped, crampon technique and axe use were a good way to end the 4 days that have been invaluable to my development and future in winter mountaineering.

I have spent a number of days working, instructing at the Ice Factor and also using the facility to develop my personal climbing and train. Also practicing skills which need to be done regularly to keep them fresh in the mind.

January finished with a cheeky day of winter navigation and general mountain safety awareness with 3 lads from Bath university. Chris, James and Ankit. Top lads who were super keen as we went out in 75mph winds that were gusting 90 to 100mph. Really good day that involved lots of contour interpretation while trying to keep 2 feet firmly planted on the ground. I am 6"4 and 16st. The wind put me on my arse a number of times but we plowed on to the summit of Stob coire Rainnich before calling it quits. A good month but as my own worse critic I feel I could have done more. But like it says in the title January just flew past!   

A back log of events. December

So since I haven't been on here and updated whats been going on or what I have been doing so you may think I have not been doing anything. Quite the opposite I can say. I haven't blogged since before Christmas for a number of reasons but might as well get back to it.

A quick catch up and hopefully you will understand the lack of updates.

View from summit of Beinn Starav down to Loch Etive

12th of December : Went up Ben Starav & Glas Beinn Mhor with friend and work college Rich. It was a cold crisp morning that promised to be a cracking days walking in clear blue skies and outstanding clarity in the air. And it delivered like UPS express. We were on the hill for 12 hours slogging up and down the huge slopes of the Etive hills while wading through powder snow. Hard work, sinking and swimming through the snow but every time you looked up the suffering was worth it. Stonking day that ended with watching the sunset from the summit of Glas Beinn Mhor.

Sunset summit, great end to the day. 

15th of December : A day of seeing old friends and meeting new ones. Lots of hilarity, stag impressions and I'm sure they were all very hungover, but to there credit though they all made it up and on the hill. Kintail was the play ground and the hill, A'Ghlas Bheinn. Another successful weekend meet with the mad crew, more of the same in 2013 I hope.

A bit of nav. practice. 

16th of December : Headed up into the "Hurt Lochain" for a look around and some phys. Wasn't overly psyched, so a head down and slog it kind of day in which I marched around the lochain and back down the path.

18th of December : Glover's Chimney, Ben Nevis. I have a feeling that some of you reading this may already know or have heard something about this day. I will not name the others in my party for a number of reasons but if you know them or me you will know who I was out with this day. 

0500 start, standard for a long day on the North Face of Ben Nevis. My initial plan was to go solo either North Gully II or Number 2 Gully II and be down by lunch, I met with some friends in the Fort and gave them a lift up to the top car park. Leaving the car park at 0600 After a fast march up to CIC, we stopped and had a chat about the day and plans. After some but not so much convincing and the chopping and changing of my mind I decided to join the party heading for Glover's. We left the CIC at 0730 after donning crampons and helmets. We approached our route by heading towards Douglas boulder the sun beginning to put some colour in the sky, we followed the snow ramp that traverse's along the bottom of the the boulder and west side of Tower Ridge which flanked us and blocked out the rising sun.

On the approcah.

After another hour and a half or so in darkness we reached the start of the climb, geared up and got the psyche. The sun was up now and the views out west were immaculate. Crisp and clear views while surrounded by the cliffs of the North Face. 

Cracking views.

 Everything was going to plan, the climbing began and it was sweet, the first pitch grade III ice was in good nick and was a great start piece to the route. After the first pitch there was some swimming through deep sugary powder to do up a long easy angle snow slope that we did in 3 pitches to reach the base of the chimney.

Note the ropes crossing the gap above.

The psyche building for this climb.....as the lead was on, there was 2 parties that crossed Tower Gap while we were in the chimney, snow poured down on us and lead climber took the brunt. After the lead up the chimney was sent and second followed I began to make my ascent of it, I had been on the belay for approximately 1hour 20mins and was absolutely freezing!!! I began to warm up and was making progress up the chimney when it all went wrong. I must have been 5 or 6 meters from topping out when I began to get cramp in my left leg while trying to make an awkward move up. I stepped down and tried to push up with my right leg and it cramped up as well. Now I have had cramp, we've all had cramp. But this was like nothing I have ever experienced before, pain that hurt so much that my legs became useless. I couldn't lift,move or use either of them and still had 6 or so meters of climbing up to do before even thinking about getting down off of Ben Nevis. This was a shit situation to be in, and not so much for me but the other two in the party. I had just become a problem. Communication between all three of us had all day been; humorous and full of banter while sharing a great days climbing but now it was serious. The guys at the belay were quick into action while I continued to struggle my way up the chimney. They rigged up a haul and put it to good use. They got me up the last few meters with my arms doing the rest. Getting both axes up into the gap was a great feeling and there was some elation and relief but then a cold wind and view down into observatory hit home and my legs weren't working. Then the realisation was as fast as the wind hitting us on Tower Ridge. We still have to get down. The guys had been on belay exposed and cold but had been sharp and switched on when it hit the fan. We stacked an abseil and and got off tower ridge as quickly and as safe as possible. Abseiling when your legs ain't working properly is like a new born giraffe on an ice rink. I dragged down the 50m of rope and got down and off the ridge and out of the the full brunt of the wind. Here we assessed the situation and weighed up our options. I personally was physically useless from the knees down and every step was agony and precarious enough that I could have taken a tumble and fallen the 800m or so that was below us in the dark. What to do, We knew our decent route and what we needed to do. The decision to call MRT was not taken lightly, I didn't think or feel the situation required a call out even though it was myself that was incapacitated. But after humming and hawing the call was made. I never spoke with anyone on the phone, that was another member of the party who had all the contact with Police and MRT. Making the call was in the end a good decision because it informed the authorities that we were on the hill and having some difficulties. 2 traverses, 5 abseils and we were getting ourselves down. The other 2 in party worked like clock work building and stripping belays as fast as possible. We got onto easier ground and took a breather, I ingested some pain relief and some water while we decided on how to continue getting down. I dug deep and the slow and painful walk down to the CIC hut began. We made it to the hut at around 2240hrs, and being here by no means safe felt like arriving home after a night on the piss. another 2hours and we were back at the car. 23hours after leaving. The guys i was out with were shit hot every step of the way before and after the shit hit the fan and I still owe them pints.

Pegs are invaluble