Lads on Ledge!

Yesterday there was an en mass ascent of Ledge route on the north face of Ben Nevis by Conor,Joe,Rich and myself. The day started ridiculously early 0545 alarm, due to Conor needing to be at work for 1700hrs. We left the north face car park at 0625hrs and blasted up the Allt a Mhuilinn path to Coire na ciste in 1 hour 40mins. The walk up is breath taking but will get easier as the season goes on, though it would be nice to get a key at least for some days. Aye right!!   When up in the Ciste we met a few familiar faces all heading for different routes. We stopped to gear up at a large boulder about 75m below and to the right of No.5 gully.

Approaching No.5 gully, geared up next to obvious large boulder

Every time I go up to the North Face of Ben Nevis in summer or winter I am spell bound by its size and dominance of you as a speck of life. But as intimidating as it is, the magical, mystical, tempting and inviting sensations are a draw  and to much not to go. I like to think of the history of the place and all the greats who have stomped,hauled,scratched or delicately picked their way up routes as well as the personal experience I am having or about to have. 

Coire na Ciste

Ledge route is another route I have been up in summer conditions and again a winter ascent was going to happen, and so it did yesterday with Conor, Joe and Rich. It was a cracking day with good company. Conor and Joe climbed as a pair ahead of Rich and myself. The route is a Scottish winter grade II and was well worth it, from the first belay laughter and good craic was had all the way up. It was a easy pace on route, with learning points to be had at times of interest. A good confidence boost for myself and a proper intro to Scottish winter and Ben Nevis for Rich. No real difficulties on ledge unless you chose a different line for a bit of interest. Which Joe decided to do and it was good, maybe a 10m pitch of IV,5?? fun but made me think about my personal skills and ability in a situation that may not have been suitable. A bit squaffing about and hauling up it and we were on top of the world. We moved together instead of pitching the last 200m and topped out at 1323hrs into a snow flurries and sunshine. Great day after which I was to knakered to write this up after or do anything.

Hilarity at the 1st belay

Spot Rich

Topping out, the boys are marching on!

      

       

First taste of winter

After humming and hawing this morning weather I should go into lectures today or not I decided to get out and on the hill. With no objective other than fitness I decided to head for the N.Ridge of Stob Ban. I had previously been up this route in summer with Dan and Mark, and a winter ascent was always on the cards this season, and so it was the first. The north ridge is a route that is over before it begins which is a shame because it is exciting, with exposure and stunning views back down Glen Nevis, east at the Devils ridge and west to Mullach Nan Coirean. All of the fun comes after a sweaty slog from 70m above sea level up to 800m. Today I gained the height in 1hr 30mins. Meeting Kev, Davie and Dave was a bonus but it was a solo day I had planned for and continued on past where they were donning there crampons to the start on the scrambling, here a put my crampons on for the first time outside this season, winter has started. 

Looking back down Glen Nevis

The fun part of the day

After putting my crampons on I made for the scrambling, scratching through soft powder on rock and unfrozen turf underneath to the top of the ridge in under 10 minutes. Decided to head west along the long ridge connecting "the mullach" to Stob Ban, this ridge is the the top of 3 cories, the original plan was to reach the summit of Mullach nan Coirean then descend back down into glen nevis, but when traversing the ridge you come to the top of a broad easy angled gully. I took my time deciding wether this was a sensible descent route before throwing caution to the wind and going for it, though after 20 meters down I questioned my exuberance and I had to convince myself that this was a good decision on a number of occasions while descending the shallow snow and loose rocks. And I am glad I did, it turned out to be a great route down and made for a nice mountaineering circuit done and dusted in 5 hours. Even had time to get some training on the Ice wall with Max and Neil which has got me psyched for the season to begin proper.  

Gully descent

Hmmmm

Days indoors

Seeing as I work at a climbing centre being indoors is the job, it may seem strange that an outdoor enthusiast would want to work inside.......... well it is on the days that the sun shines through the floor to roof windows especially there's dry rock or winter routes in condition (hopefully soon) outside. Ce' la vie, get on with it. It is a great job, its not work in the traditional sense of the word because its fun, I get paid to do something that I have so much enthusiasm for and enjoy so much (that I think it may annoy some). I don't just play all day as many think, I instruct session with the same enthusiasm that I put into my personal climbing and try to show, share and spread the satisfaction and enjoyment I get from climbing. And working for a business comes with all the other responsibilities of being an employee. Today though, I did something new at work which may be trivial to others within the climbing world/community but it felt rather good to finally be route setting, this is a creative part of the job that I have always wanted get my teeth into. I have been to so many different indoor venues and climbed at the Ice Factor for a good few years now and watched and learned from as well as work along side some of the very best climbers and there fore best route setters in the country. No pressure!!! Indoor climbing walls for the outdoor nut is a gym, a training facility, a place to go when its pissing rain and to warm for snow and ice. So with that in mind I went about setting my first ever route with the intention of giving climbers of it something to think about or work out some key muscles and movements of climbing. Depending on ability and level of strength and fitness it is climbable with the use of features for feet at 5/5+ or bolt on holds only at 6a. That's my personal thoughts  that are open to more experienced setters and climbers correcting them. Any way I enjoyed the experience, I hope to learn more, and set more. If you have given it a climb, have any feed back, constructive or not. let me know. As well as any tips or advice for climbing or route setting, send them my way.

James

First Route, Red. 5+?

   

The beginnings

Roll back to April 2008 to a claggy day slogging up Ben Lomond with some friends. The calf burning, lung busting and heart thumping ascent was making me question what I was doing in an environment that felt unwelcoming but enticing then breaking through the cloud at 930m the answer was obvious. Seeing other peaks like islands in the clouds was even more breath taking than the effort to the summit of my first munro.

I could look back on my up bringing in a small village of the Scottish borders as the ingraining of the outdoors and adventure but moving to Dunblane in 96' gave me the back garden of Sherrifmuir and the surrounding area of the Trossachs in which to really explore and discover the outdoor environment.

View of my "back garden"

After leaving school I had more and more encounters with the outdoors and wild environments while also working outside as a green keeper for 3 years then a building site labourer. Walking, running, cycling were routine while hill walking was a once in a blue moon day out that was tempting but testing logistically  Until the first munro and the seed was planted.
 
I am living in Fort William and have been since march 2011. Fort William in the west highlands of Scotland and is the hub of Lochaber, also known as the Outdoor Capital of the UK. I have been studying at West Highland College UHI since September 11' and I am part of the School of Adventure Studies in my 1st year of the Adventure Tourism Managment degree. Also I'm doing a trainee scheme with The Ice Factor Ltd. the National ice climbing centre and I work there as an instructor for rock climbing,ice climbing and run sessions on the high ropes course

In the 4 years since "the first munro" (now on 89 for any baggers wanting to compare sac's)  I have walked, climbed, canoed, cycled, explored and been on all kinds expeditions in the Scottish mountains, the Lake District, Peak District, the Carpathian mountains, High Tatra's and the Hinterland of Portugal. Every step of the way to now November 2012 has been a learning curve towards becoming experienced and working towards NGB's and I have just completed a 6 day Mountain Leader training course. I am not going to back date all my adventures and experiences until now but i am going to keep up as to date from now on of all the activities, adventures, epics(if any) and other related topics or things of interest.

One of may many adventures so far(No.2 gully, Ben Nevis)

Having just completed ML training I am in a confident mood and planning when and where to book my assessment. While also looking forward to getting out in the mountains this winter. So there will be many blogs to follow.

Enjoy
James

Hello

I am starting a blog to go hand in hand with my work, degree and experiences that I wish to share. I have be thinking of doing this for some time but haven't had the time. Hopefully i do now.

James