Conditions, Decisions and Head Games

Saturday was an interesting day spent with Alfie in the very busy Northern corries of the Cairngorms. Plan was to go climbing, and we made a good start but very quickly let our heads get the better of us and we ended up backing off Yukon Jack, IV,4 although probably only III,4 at present if that. But the lack of gear + head not in the right place and impending sense of air time made us sack it off. We bimbled back into the corrie defeated and disheartened by lack of psyche to get up the route. My mind began to implode on itself,so quickly had to do something to change the self wallowing. We decided to ditch our rucksacks behind a rock, take one axe only and race around the corrie, we ended up over near the Twin ribs area and Fiacall Buttress where we moved up, across and over solid neve, and some interesting rock & ice steps,  before ending up on Fiacall ridge. We nipped along the ridge moving quickly and freely with no bags to slow us down. When we topped out onto the plateau we made the decision to do some nav practice and skills via the rim of the corrie to make a loop and journey to salvage the day and erase the failure of earlier. We made it round and back down into the corrie in good time to then have to try and remember which rock our bags were behind. After locating bags we walked out with the wind at our bags and smiles on our faces. As we could already taste the Mountain Cafe food!

Alfie,Not a happy man at this moment

Me(james) on Fiacall Ridge,II. Moving fast but i'll never be light.

on the plateau 

Today I was out with Alfie again but also had the company of Mark Warner. We decide to have a go at ascending Curved Ridge,III. on Buachaille Etive Mor. The sun was splitting the sky in Glencoe and it was very warm on the walk in. We reached the snowline in quick time and made our way quickly up to the very banked out first step of the ridge. We solo'd up round the corner into Crowberry basin which is full of snow and banked out like I have never seen before. After ascending for 100m or so things began to change very quickly, it was almost like the mountain was telling us, warning us to get off. Debris was falling down all around as the air temperature rose quickly and pushing the freezing level way above the summit of Stob Dearg. Big bits, little bits, all sorts and sizes of snow, ice and rock moving at us quickly with gravity speeding them up. A decision was made pretty quickly and sensibly that we should GTF of the hill in one piece, we retraced out steps down and made it to some relativity safe ground where we could relax. There was a lot of nervous laughter and piss taking to ease the mood and keep us sane and I am not scared to admit that the experience of today has shook me a little, mentally. But it was and has been a good learning experience......for now,  

run away!

not happy in the sightest

 

Re-discovering old hobbies and past times along with mountain and climbing work.

I have been trying my hand and art lately and found a real enjoyment while doing so, this maybe due to the brilliant people of Room 13 who have triggered this. Unsurprising it has been all very climbing,mountain and outdoor based so far, I actually liked art at school a long time ago but never really liked the idea of drawing or painting plants or apples along with the 20 or so others in the class. But I've definitely had a push towards doing more so will see how it goes from here. Another random occurrence has been getting behind a drum kit again and I now face the prospect of playing a gig on Saturday for the first time in about 8 years.........hmmmmmmm.

 3 Pieces of Art I have done in the last 2 days

 

The standard routine of working and climbing has still been going on while I have been expressing myself or whatever art folks call it.

Tuesday I spent the day at Outward Bound Loch Eil having an induction/interview for any potential freelance work that may or may not be available.

Thursday evening I re-introduced and refreshed Richard and Sarah to climbing indoors and had great fun in doing so.

Today I was working for Lochaber Guides. I met Julia at 1030 off a Bus from Glasgow into which she had flown from the USA on Tuesday evening. We went for a very sociable, chatty and informative walk up the Allt a Mhullin from the North face car park to the CIC hut. We had the wind in our face and the rain at our backs in the distance on the way up to the hut but this seemed to invigorate the day and keep the conversation flowing. We made it to the hut in good time where we enjoyed some good views of Coire na Ciste. We mastered the art of people watching in the mountains while enjoying a snack out of the wind. Teams doing winter skills, avalanche awareness and also making good progress up routes on Douglas boulder. After our alfresco scene that wouldn't of seemed out of place apart from the increasing winds and heavy wet snow fall that was saturating jackets,gloves and everything possible. We made for a leisurely stroll full face into the weather back down the way we came. A very real challenge for Julia today but she took it all in her stride with a smile on her face at all times and always wanting to learn, ask questions and listen which made for a good walk.

Reached our objective

Smiles all round.

Typically Scottish

Out and about & getting involved in the culture

Fort William Mountain Festival is on at the moment, it is a great time in the area with all things mountain going on.

I volunteered Thursday morning to help set up the stands that are used for the exhibition of art, photography, local businesses and the mountain culture of Fort William, Lochaber, the Highlands & Scotland. After a few hours graft I drove to Kinlochleven for a couple more days of work at the Ice Factor.

Today I went out for a walk with Kev, Nadir, Andy and Dave. The forecast wasn't great but Kev and Nadir were hoping to get some photography and filming done. We headed up Glen Nevis at 0630 and it was decided that the sharp steep pull up onto the North ridge of Stob Ban would be the quickest way to get to the snow line and hopefully get the shots that were required. The day was very social with good chat and networking with the forecast bang on and winds gusting stronger with every meter of height gained, the decision to bail was simple. We headed back down after reaching the snow and having a bit of walk/being blown around. Under foot the snow was wet, heavy and deep. All around there was evidence of avalanche activity especially in the corries of Mullach nan Coirean. Full depth slides apparent.

Kev on the slog up

Andy enjoying a bit of blue sky.

Indoor work, no rest for tired legs and a mind full of questions!

Monday and today I was working for Ice Factor and the weather of the west coast and Scottish winter made for a very busy and enjoyable couple of days working at the National Ice Climbing Centre in Kinlochleven. Monday I spent the majority of the day working in the ice wall teaching and instructing climbing to a varying range of adults, children, abilities and experience.
I also ran a few intro to rock sessions and some belay refreshers. As if back to back sessions wasn't enough, on Monday night I organised and worked over time along with a few bodies from the local UNI to do some much needed maintenance in the fridge. I didn't finish or leave the centre until 2300hrs. Today started a little slower than Monday but the pace soon picked up with west coast skiing being shut down by the usual high winds. While working indoors over the past two days my thoughts were provoked by working and sharing this time with families, groups and clients from all over the UK coming to Lochaber, the Outdoor Capital of the UK, to participate in the various and numerous activities available in the area.

Happy climbing inside a big fridge 

                                                                 

Theses thoughts were; why does a very large percentage of "local people" not participate, engage or take advantage of what is on offer? And what needs/can be done to change, introduce, influence,encourage or educate this percentage? ...........if anything?

I find it hard to understand when I hear people say "there's nothing to do here" When you look out any of your windows living or working in Fort William and the surrounding area and all you see is mountains, open space, rivers, forests and lochs. A play ground to the adventurer in all of us? Not everyone enjoys or sees this, which I completely understand but are businesses and providers along with councils,communities and schools doing enough to inspire, inform and educate the different generations of residents of an area that has so many possibilities and potential............

Views of Bidian nam Bian, Glencoe.

I think after some very hectic work, which involved meeting, greeting, teaching and engaging with some great people while seeing some excellent climbing of ages varying from 3 years old to 68 years old as well as the manual labour, I have thought to much and require the space of the mountains to solve all the problems I've created in my head while enjoying the fresh air and peace that comes with living and working in a Mountain environment.




 

A view everyone should see with there own eyes(Glencoe Summer 2013)

Motivation, inspiration and good slice of confidence boosting!

So after almost 3 months of not keeping this up to date I have had good kick up the behind today. But where to start.......... a photo from today, I was out on the Pap of Glencoe enjoying a rare day this winter.

Ballachulish Horse Shoe 

There are various reasons for not blogging lately:

• Lacking confidence to write up what I have been doing is the big one
• Doing a lot outdoors is another
• Finding the time to write up in the way I do is always a challenge (hope to change that)
• Working behind a computer typing up reports and documents for a part time office based job has enhanced the excuse to ignore computer in spare time, plus the use of an iPhone to access email, Facebook and other media means the laptop has been almost redundant. 

But anyway, I have had an inspiring day today and when looking back on Facebook and Twitter

https://www.facebook.com/jwgseaman & JSOutdoors

I have had an inspiring winter season to date.

The big one for me would be Winter Mountain Leader training attended and now also the looming Assessment!

I am feeling ready but also nervous due to the time, effort and commitment I have already put in and being doubted by the lack of confidence that over rides me at times. I think this is due to being involved in an industry where there is so much talent, experience and quality that I feel very much at the lower rung of a difficult ladder. And also that although there is an amazing community of freelance, outdoor centre employees and outdoor students in Fort William we are all competition at the end of the day. This is good but adds to the pressures and uncertainties of freelance work.

That head game aside I have had the best winter climbing season of my career to date and also had some fantastic mountain days and experiences with new and old friends this winter while also working when and where I can to improve my professional profile and network. I would like to thank a number of people who have helped me progress personally as well as professionally these last few months  :

Kev Shields for inspiration, motivation and coaching in all aspects of my climbing, but especially mentally.

Andy Spink & Hebridean Pursuits for his mentoring and opportunities.

The Ice Factor family, Joe , Conor, Mark, Rich B, Rich P, Pete for all the laughs, routes, training, psyche, slagging and banter and the management and cafe crew for enduring it!

Dave Anderson for setting a standard to aim for and achieve.

Steve Holmes for some inspiring climbing and chat when out on routes.

Gabi Tomescu ,Extreme Tattoo & Piercing & GT-Photography for friendship, photos and a good laugh at life!

A quick mention of Team Powell and the Spartan Society of STS, the STS, Pete Hill, MTA cheers!!

and most of all........

My family and girlfriend for all the support and putting up with me so far, thank you.

If anyone I have forgotten reads this, or feels I owe them, I do apologise and let me know who you are!

A man hard at work, fantastic photographer Gabi

Wet Wet West.

After setting foot in snow last Friday the rain and warm temperatures returned and have striped what snow there was.

Last week saw me spend a 4 days working inside at Ice Factor, which I was quite glad of. The shifts I worked saw me running taster rock & ice sessions and hit the ice lessons. I also put my hand to some route setting as well.



On Friday 15th Joe, Rich and myself went for a day on the hill, for them to practice hill skills and ML prep. I went for the jolly and fitness side of things and boy did the day not disappoint.

Rich either checking timings or timing Joe?
Good slick skills from the lads, made my day easy.

We set of  nice and early again and drove up to Kilfinnan at Loch Lochy as the pair of Munros near there none of us had been up.

Smiles all round o the summit.

We were off from the car at a leisurely pace around 1030, after our alpine start and aimed for a couple of gates in some fences to reach a flattening before a steady ascent onto the long ridge line that leads up and over two minor peaks before winding around to Sron a Choire Ghairbh. When we approached 600m the already blustery wind increased steadily to a rather strong breeze that became relentless which made for an entertaining part of the day. The small patches of soft snow that remain were more energy sapping than enthusiasm inducing but still nice to stomp through it at times. After a brief stop on the summit we headed for the bealach between Sron a Choire Ghairbh and Meall na Teanga from here we made the decision to head down, we'd been on the hill for a good 4 to 5 hours haveing our eyelids blown inside out and battling every step so we thought better than to continue on and be up high for any longer than necessary. The pat from the bealach down is brilliantly constructred and makes for a quick descent to the Great Glen way and back to the car, not without incident though as it seems no matter how old you get, jumping in puddles is still fun, especially when you soak everyone around you.

Winter looks to be setting in again this week as I write this, drove through sleet and snow on the way home today. Fingers crossed I can use new boots and axes ASAP!

First steps in snow eventually.

So after the pathetic and poor attempt at trying to get out on Thursday, I eventually got my rear in gear and got some motivation on Friday.

The day started very similar to Thursday with an early visit to the leisure centre for some mentoring and personal training. I then had a visit to the hospital at 10am for a 3 month check up, all good at present.

I got home at 1015 and parked up on the couch thinking about what to to do when the phone rang and a very enthusiastic friend who I haven't seen for a good few months gave me and earful of psyche and motivation down the line...........

10minutes later we were in the car and heading for Glen Nevis. Such a late start was obviously not the best but we were keen and in high spirits. I made the suggestion of doing the North ridge of Stob Ban as I have done it plenty of times, it is relatively straight forward and quick with numerous options from the top of the ridge. With my proposal accepted we went for it. We made good time up the lower slopes and reached the gate in the deer fence within 30mins of leaving the car, not bad but we left the car at 1120, not an ideal or typical winter start time but we trodged on with juvenile whoops and shouts.

On the lower slopes, wet and soggy.

As we broke onto the lower, wide and winding section of the ridge we were hit by a hail, snow and sleet  forced by a strong wind. It was amusing and also painful at times, can only describe it as being shot with a BB gun repeatedly. The kind of pain that makes you laugh. This last for 15 mins before a break in the cloud and giiving some stunning views all around. We had also made it to the snow line by this point and were beginning to break a trail, and the high point of the ridge beckoned us on as did the fresh and untouched snow at our feet.

The view from the lower part of the N.Ridge.

We moved along the wide and winding ridge at a fair pace, admiring views up the glen and back down to Fort William, Caol and Corpach all while watching more weather moving in at a high speed. But we were suited and booted for it and continued on with determination and eagerness. 

Weather coming our way fast.

We reached the start of the interesting section of the ridge and decide to put crampons on although there was no consolidated snow or ice and the ground and turf is soggy unless exposed we thought it better to use them than not as well as getting use to moving on that kind of ground in them again.

Alfie setting off on the fun stuff. 

We moved through the broken and scrambling ground in proper soft and deep early season powder and had great fun in doing so, as we 

got onto the crest of the ridge the view across to Glencoe and Ballachulish became the back drop, with cracking clouds, sunlight and colours before us. Looking down to the left from the ridge, or east I noticed a lot of snow debris and slide marks, I looked, wondered and began to make out what has obviously been a big movement of snow, the avalanche had been very recent but exactly when I don't know.  

Approaching the crest

Avalanche debris

Reaching the end of the ridge we had options on what to do, it was just coming up for 1400hrs, we made haste and went for the long walk round Mullach nan Coirean. In hindsight maybe should have picked an easier option but it was well worth the slog. We pushed ourselves on with laughter and slander and reached the summit of Mullach nan Coirean at 1600hrs. The plod round the connecting ridge gave some cracking views and we were hit by repeated snow flurries and strong winds but this made for an all round adventure that I wasn't expecting to have on the day. We descended down the rib that takes you to a styled fence singing a random array of songs and admiring the sights around. We made it back to the car by 1830 and were completely knackered. But satisfied with the day and excited for more. 

Very happy to be out, and the first winter day out done. Fingers crossed in continues as its started, weather wise and not my shocking first day attempt. Today has wiped that from memory already though!