February, started so positively. Can I keep it up?

February 2nd. Ratho E.I.C.A. Largest indoor climbing facility in the UK (and the world?) I sat my CWA assessment. Climbing Wall Award. This qualification allows me to work at indoor, or man made structures designed for climbing. It is a very basic qualification at the bottom of a long ladder but its a start. Chuffed to get it done and dusted. Now to focus on the next qualification. Summer ML assessment.

I also started back at uni this month and even though I was apprehensive and unsure whether I wanted to continue I am pretty happy with the way the semester has started and the new modules I am taking. Plus there is always the practicals to keep you motivated. First practical of the academic year was missed because of work commitments but the second was not missed and I am glad I turned in for it.


Winter skills, Leadership, Decision making, Group management and a whole host of other learning points were there to be taken from the day.

The venue Coire na Tulaich, Stob Dearg, Buachille etive Mor.

Coire na Tulaich

On the slog in. 

We slogged it along the path to get onto snow as soon as possible. The banter and spirits high in a group of varying ages and experience. At the helm Mr Kirkhope MIC. We looked at decision making, when, where, why to put crampons on. Route choices, snow accumulations and safety. Found a small pocket of wind slab and demonstrated the ease of setting it off. Crampons were donned at an appropriate point and we made a bee line for some iced up rocky steps to climb on. Dream time, climbing up how ever small and benign it is, is always better than walking up. But these steps weren't just for fun, they were a really good place to look at how and why you would have to manage a group carefully on such steps and highlight the consequences of not doing so. 
The steps were not difficult climbing and require no rope but the consequences of a slip, trip or fall were very serious. As a group I want to think we were all aware of this but .........?

I took everything in my stride at the start of the day, not wanting to be cocky but to push myself harder. Moving up snow slopes, with crampons and axes is the bread and butter of winter mountaineering and I feel pretty comfortable and confident at this but it is always to good to practice and test your skills. I asked every question in my head and tried to get people to think of more by provoking them by giving tips, hints, instruction or tuition in some skills. I don't know if they took it on board as I am peer, but its still good to give as well as take in this industry. When we eventually topped out of the coire we were greated by fantastic views down Glen Etive and across "the Coe" to the "hurt lochan", Aoanch Eagach, Bidean nam Bean and the baby Buachaille. After some scenic apprecitation we commenced a saunter not far off what you see down the high street of every town in the country to the summit of Stob Dearg. Half an hour later and a couple coffee's from flasks and frozen biscuits, No starbucks or costa up there, we were admiring the splendorous sight that is Rannoch moor from a height of 1022m. This vast empty space in the highlands cant really be seen unless you get some elevation and there is no better view point than from the summit of Stob Dearg.

The vast expanse of Rannoch moor

  A couple of snaps from the ascent of coire na tulaich.

Quality

Manage this?

After some chat at 1022m and identifying layers in the snow with some blackcurrent. we headed back to the coire to descend back the way we came, This would give us all a good chance to practice some vital skills and one person in particular a real life chance to practice a skill that will save your live if you do it right and react quick enough. Fortunately the slip, trip and inevitable slide did not end badly but it could have been a lot different. A member of the group tripped and fell while descending on a steep slope of neve (hard snow ice) they slid head first to begin with before managing to turn themselves round and attempt to self arrest. They slid for roughly 100m's luckily avoiding scree, rocks and not catching a crampon and tumbling. Eye opening, and a jaw dropping reminder of how serious an environment mountains are to work and play in but the biggest thing for me was how quickly it all happened. Luckily it didn't spoil our day and gave us something to laugh about in the pub later on. A great day out that has given me a lot to think about before the next one, what ever that may be. 

Understanding the snow pack and layers with Ribena?   

    

January just flew past!

After a wee bit of an epic on "the Ben" before Christmas, I took the time I had off over the festive period to relax and contemplate way too much about that 23hrs. Christmas and new year past with out anything eventful happening with my outdoors adventures but what I did do was very worth while, enjoyable and a new experience all the same. I saw in a new year at work and I saw myself working the first week of 2013 in the Ice Factor.

I set out on the hill for the first time in 2013 on the the 10th of January, on what was not a very wintry day. It was a warm and muggy morning that was spent up at poll dubh going over some rope work and belays on DRY ROCK!! It was a bit of a strange experience to be climbing rock up the glen at the time of year but was good fun and a quick blast multi-pitching the gutter to almost the ridiculous was a good skills check and test for me and wee Camo. After a good morning wee decided to go and do "the Pap" this relatively small piece of rock is so distinctive that if you have driven on the A82 between Glencoe and Fort William you will know exactly what mound of rock I am talking about. It stands at a mere 742m above sea level, but this rather small height in altitude does not mean the pap is insignificant. Not to me anyway, this piece of rock stands proudly where every thing else around it was ground down and scraped away by tons of ice when Scotland was covered by glaciers. It is a very straight forward ascent up to the col between the Pap and Sgurr nam Fiannaidh, then there is an obvious easy line up through the steep and rocky sections but as you may have guessed, I had to find a more awkward, interesting, difficult and CLIMBING way to get up, nothing technical or requiring ropes, just a bit of a laugh and fun. Hands on rocks make me happy. After a mess about I was on top 762m could have been 7620m, the 360 panoramic views from the summit of the Pap are exquisite, the mediocre height is no reason not to blast up there.

The rest of January was more wintry but also more working! Spent 2 days climbing with the now MIC Scott Kirkhope, these 2 days were all about learning from Scott. And that I did, in fact I would say I learned more in those 2 days than I ever did at School, college or uni. but this isn't a dig at the educational system or lack of it. It is a compliment to an outstanding instructor and a stand up bloke. The first day with Scott we went to Aonach Mor, gondola up then a nice easy going plod to the patrol hut to gear up. Geared up with the masses of familiar faces and unrecognisable ones to. Abseiled of a bollard into easy gully and into the serious ground, it is a very different experience from the walking up and into winter crags, climbing. One minute your on top of it all.......the next you are surrounded by steep rocks, crags and on a snow slope that disappears into the abyss. Its a great experience, but very much like a tap on the shoulder then slapped. If you aren't switched on then it goes without saying your in the wrong place. We headed down easy gully and along the bottom of the crags, Scott all the time identifying routes and passing on as much knowledge and info as he could. We were looking for tunnel vision a grade III ice route but it wasn't in condition so next thought was morwind, III. But there was already a team on route, a quick flick through the guide book by Scott and a route was picked, "slick as fuck" was my thought. So first belay was made on Turf Walk, III,4. This route, 4 pitches all led by Scott, was awesome. My favourite day of winter climbing to date. Turf, Ice, Snow and Rock. Quality moves on hooks, front points, smearing and a lot of noise from myself! Loved every minute of it. At the end Scott's thoughts were it was harder than III,4. Maybe a IV,4 or even 5. Whatever the grade it was a mint day that couldn't even be ruined by missing the gondola back down.

Scott, showing us how its done.

Second day with Scott we went up into Stob Coire nan Lochan aka "the hurt lochan" today was all about myself and camo swinging leads as well as learning even more from Scott. Fantastic climbing in a venue that I will spend more days in for sure. Dorsal arete was the route, grade II. A belter of a route at the grade with some very airy and exposed moves through out. Exciting, experimental and adventurous learning, Needs to be in a syllabus for education!!!!

Me(james) on the final pitch of Dorsal Arete,II

After climbing we descended down broad gully, talking about avalanche awareness and all things winter and mountains. Fantastic 2 days which I will look back on fondly and also have a huge amount of thanks and appreciation to show for them.

Winter skills on a perfect winter's day. 

The next 4 days I spent shadowing, observing and being a member of a mountaineering/winter skills course that was being delivered by head honcho Pete Hyde for the first 2 days and big JB the final 2. It was a pleasant experience which gave me a good insight into 2 new completely different and contrasting styles of instructing and guiding. Day 1 was spent in the coire of Beinn a'Chaoarinn, some nav practice and sliding about the order of the day. Peg placements chucked in for good measure. Day 2 on Aoanch Mor, round the back, Nid ridge area. Rope work introduced and practiced. Day 3 a return to the "hurt lochan" psyched ! For me today was about looking at and learning about group management.  Boomerang arete, III was the route choice, it was climbed for all of one pitch before the decision to abseil of was made due to time. Day 4 a winter hill day on the Buachaille etive Beag. Navigation and leadership were the main points of the day but avalanche awareness and understanding snow movement, and accumulation featured. Winter skills were re-capped, crampon technique and axe use were a good way to end the 4 days that have been invaluable to my development and future in winter mountaineering.

I have spent a number of days working, instructing at the Ice Factor and also using the facility to develop my personal climbing and train. Also practicing skills which need to be done regularly to keep them fresh in the mind.

January finished with a cheeky day of winter navigation and general mountain safety awareness with 3 lads from Bath university. Chris, James and Ankit. Top lads who were super keen as we went out in 75mph winds that were gusting 90 to 100mph. Really good day that involved lots of contour interpretation while trying to keep 2 feet firmly planted on the ground. I am 6"4 and 16st. The wind put me on my arse a number of times but we plowed on to the summit of Stob coire Rainnich before calling it quits. A good month but as my own worse critic I feel I could have done more. But like it says in the title January just flew past!   

A back log of events. December

So since I haven't been on here and updated whats been going on or what I have been doing so you may think I have not been doing anything. Quite the opposite I can say. I haven't blogged since before Christmas for a number of reasons but might as well get back to it.

A quick catch up and hopefully you will understand the lack of updates.

View from summit of Beinn Starav down to Loch Etive

12th of December : Went up Ben Starav & Glas Beinn Mhor with friend and work college Rich. It was a cold crisp morning that promised to be a cracking days walking in clear blue skies and outstanding clarity in the air. And it delivered like UPS express. We were on the hill for 12 hours slogging up and down the huge slopes of the Etive hills while wading through powder snow. Hard work, sinking and swimming through the snow but every time you looked up the suffering was worth it. Stonking day that ended with watching the sunset from the summit of Glas Beinn Mhor.

Sunset summit, great end to the day. 

15th of December : A day of seeing old friends and meeting new ones. Lots of hilarity, stag impressions and I'm sure they were all very hungover, but to there credit though they all made it up and on the hill. Kintail was the play ground and the hill, A'Ghlas Bheinn. Another successful weekend meet with the mad crew, more of the same in 2013 I hope.

A bit of nav. practice. 

16th of December : Headed up into the "Hurt Lochain" for a look around and some phys. Wasn't overly psyched, so a head down and slog it kind of day in which I marched around the lochain and back down the path.

18th of December : Glover's Chimney, Ben Nevis. I have a feeling that some of you reading this may already know or have heard something about this day. I will not name the others in my party for a number of reasons but if you know them or me you will know who I was out with this day. 

0500 start, standard for a long day on the North Face of Ben Nevis. My initial plan was to go solo either North Gully II or Number 2 Gully II and be down by lunch, I met with some friends in the Fort and gave them a lift up to the top car park. Leaving the car park at 0600 After a fast march up to CIC, we stopped and had a chat about the day and plans. After some but not so much convincing and the chopping and changing of my mind I decided to join the party heading for Glover's. We left the CIC at 0730 after donning crampons and helmets. We approached our route by heading towards Douglas boulder the sun beginning to put some colour in the sky, we followed the snow ramp that traverse's along the bottom of the the boulder and west side of Tower Ridge which flanked us and blocked out the rising sun.

On the approcah.

After another hour and a half or so in darkness we reached the start of the climb, geared up and got the psyche. The sun was up now and the views out west were immaculate. Crisp and clear views while surrounded by the cliffs of the North Face. 

Cracking views.

 Everything was going to plan, the climbing began and it was sweet, the first pitch grade III ice was in good nick and was a great start piece to the route. After the first pitch there was some swimming through deep sugary powder to do up a long easy angle snow slope that we did in 3 pitches to reach the base of the chimney.

Note the ropes crossing the gap above.

The psyche building for this climb.....as the lead was on, there was 2 parties that crossed Tower Gap while we were in the chimney, snow poured down on us and lead climber took the brunt. After the lead up the chimney was sent and second followed I began to make my ascent of it, I had been on the belay for approximately 1hour 20mins and was absolutely freezing!!! I began to warm up and was making progress up the chimney when it all went wrong. I must have been 5 or 6 meters from topping out when I began to get cramp in my left leg while trying to make an awkward move up. I stepped down and tried to push up with my right leg and it cramped up as well. Now I have had cramp, we've all had cramp. But this was like nothing I have ever experienced before, pain that hurt so much that my legs became useless. I couldn't lift,move or use either of them and still had 6 or so meters of climbing up to do before even thinking about getting down off of Ben Nevis. This was a shit situation to be in, and not so much for me but the other two in the party. I had just become a problem. Communication between all three of us had all day been; humorous and full of banter while sharing a great days climbing but now it was serious. The guys at the belay were quick into action while I continued to struggle my way up the chimney. They rigged up a haul and put it to good use. They got me up the last few meters with my arms doing the rest. Getting both axes up into the gap was a great feeling and there was some elation and relief but then a cold wind and view down into observatory hit home and my legs weren't working. Then the realisation was as fast as the wind hitting us on Tower Ridge. We still have to get down. The guys had been on belay exposed and cold but had been sharp and switched on when it hit the fan. We stacked an abseil and and got off tower ridge as quickly and as safe as possible. Abseiling when your legs ain't working properly is like a new born giraffe on an ice rink. I dragged down the 50m of rope and got down and off the ridge and out of the the full brunt of the wind. Here we assessed the situation and weighed up our options. I personally was physically useless from the knees down and every step was agony and precarious enough that I could have taken a tumble and fallen the 800m or so that was below us in the dark. What to do, We knew our decent route and what we needed to do. The decision to call MRT was not taken lightly, I didn't think or feel the situation required a call out even though it was myself that was incapacitated. But after humming and hawing the call was made. I never spoke with anyone on the phone, that was another member of the party who had all the contact with Police and MRT. Making the call was in the end a good decision because it informed the authorities that we were on the hill and having some difficulties. 2 traverses, 5 abseils and we were getting ourselves down. The other 2 in party worked like clock work building and stripping belays as fast as possible. We got onto easier ground and took a breather, I ingested some pain relief and some water while we decided on how to continue getting down. I dug deep and the slow and painful walk down to the CIC hut began. We made it to the hut at around 2240hrs, and being here by no means safe felt like arriving home after a night on the piss. another 2hours and we were back at the car. 23hours after leaving. The guys i was out with were shit hot every step of the way before and after the shit hit the fan and I still owe them pints.

Pegs are invaluble

Lads on Ledge!

Yesterday there was an en mass ascent of Ledge route on the north face of Ben Nevis by Conor,Joe,Rich and myself. The day started ridiculously early 0545 alarm, due to Conor needing to be at work for 1700hrs. We left the north face car park at 0625hrs and blasted up the Allt a Mhuilinn path to Coire na ciste in 1 hour 40mins. The walk up is breath taking but will get easier as the season goes on, though it would be nice to get a key at least for some days. Aye right!!   When up in the Ciste we met a few familiar faces all heading for different routes. We stopped to gear up at a large boulder about 75m below and to the right of No.5 gully.

Approaching No.5 gully, geared up next to obvious large boulder

Every time I go up to the North Face of Ben Nevis in summer or winter I am spell bound by its size and dominance of you as a speck of life. But as intimidating as it is, the magical, mystical, tempting and inviting sensations are a draw  and to much not to go. I like to think of the history of the place and all the greats who have stomped,hauled,scratched or delicately picked their way up routes as well as the personal experience I am having or about to have. 

Coire na Ciste

Ledge route is another route I have been up in summer conditions and again a winter ascent was going to happen, and so it did yesterday with Conor, Joe and Rich. It was a cracking day with good company. Conor and Joe climbed as a pair ahead of Rich and myself. The route is a Scottish winter grade II and was well worth it, from the first belay laughter and good craic was had all the way up. It was a easy pace on route, with learning points to be had at times of interest. A good confidence boost for myself and a proper intro to Scottish winter and Ben Nevis for Rich. No real difficulties on ledge unless you chose a different line for a bit of interest. Which Joe decided to do and it was good, maybe a 10m pitch of IV,5?? fun but made me think about my personal skills and ability in a situation that may not have been suitable. A bit squaffing about and hauling up it and we were on top of the world. We moved together instead of pitching the last 200m and topped out at 1323hrs into a snow flurries and sunshine. Great day after which I was to knakered to write this up after or do anything.

Hilarity at the 1st belay

Spot Rich

Topping out, the boys are marching on!

      

       

First taste of winter

After humming and hawing this morning weather I should go into lectures today or not I decided to get out and on the hill. With no objective other than fitness I decided to head for the N.Ridge of Stob Ban. I had previously been up this route in summer with Dan and Mark, and a winter ascent was always on the cards this season, and so it was the first. The north ridge is a route that is over before it begins which is a shame because it is exciting, with exposure and stunning views back down Glen Nevis, east at the Devils ridge and west to Mullach Nan Coirean. All of the fun comes after a sweaty slog from 70m above sea level up to 800m. Today I gained the height in 1hr 30mins. Meeting Kev, Davie and Dave was a bonus but it was a solo day I had planned for and continued on past where they were donning there crampons to the start on the scrambling, here a put my crampons on for the first time outside this season, winter has started. 

Looking back down Glen Nevis

The fun part of the day

After putting my crampons on I made for the scrambling, scratching through soft powder on rock and unfrozen turf underneath to the top of the ridge in under 10 minutes. Decided to head west along the long ridge connecting "the mullach" to Stob Ban, this ridge is the the top of 3 cories, the original plan was to reach the summit of Mullach nan Coirean then descend back down into glen nevis, but when traversing the ridge you come to the top of a broad easy angled gully. I took my time deciding wether this was a sensible descent route before throwing caution to the wind and going for it, though after 20 meters down I questioned my exuberance and I had to convince myself that this was a good decision on a number of occasions while descending the shallow snow and loose rocks. And I am glad I did, it turned out to be a great route down and made for a nice mountaineering circuit done and dusted in 5 hours. Even had time to get some training on the Ice wall with Max and Neil which has got me psyched for the season to begin proper.  

Gully descent

Hmmmm

Days indoors

Seeing as I work at a climbing centre being indoors is the job, it may seem strange that an outdoor enthusiast would want to work inside.......... well it is on the days that the sun shines through the floor to roof windows especially there's dry rock or winter routes in condition (hopefully soon) outside. Ce' la vie, get on with it. It is a great job, its not work in the traditional sense of the word because its fun, I get paid to do something that I have so much enthusiasm for and enjoy so much (that I think it may annoy some). I don't just play all day as many think, I instruct session with the same enthusiasm that I put into my personal climbing and try to show, share and spread the satisfaction and enjoyment I get from climbing. And working for a business comes with all the other responsibilities of being an employee. Today though, I did something new at work which may be trivial to others within the climbing world/community but it felt rather good to finally be route setting, this is a creative part of the job that I have always wanted get my teeth into. I have been to so many different indoor venues and climbed at the Ice Factor for a good few years now and watched and learned from as well as work along side some of the very best climbers and there fore best route setters in the country. No pressure!!! Indoor climbing walls for the outdoor nut is a gym, a training facility, a place to go when its pissing rain and to warm for snow and ice. So with that in mind I went about setting my first ever route with the intention of giving climbers of it something to think about or work out some key muscles and movements of climbing. Depending on ability and level of strength and fitness it is climbable with the use of features for feet at 5/5+ or bolt on holds only at 6a. That's my personal thoughts  that are open to more experienced setters and climbers correcting them. Any way I enjoyed the experience, I hope to learn more, and set more. If you have given it a climb, have any feed back, constructive or not. let me know. As well as any tips or advice for climbing or route setting, send them my way.

James

First Route, Red. 5+?

   

The beginnings

Roll back to April 2008 to a claggy day slogging up Ben Lomond with some friends. The calf burning, lung busting and heart thumping ascent was making me question what I was doing in an environment that felt unwelcoming but enticing then breaking through the cloud at 930m the answer was obvious. Seeing other peaks like islands in the clouds was even more breath taking than the effort to the summit of my first munro.

I could look back on my up bringing in a small village of the Scottish borders as the ingraining of the outdoors and adventure but moving to Dunblane in 96' gave me the back garden of Sherrifmuir and the surrounding area of the Trossachs in which to really explore and discover the outdoor environment.

View of my "back garden"

After leaving school I had more and more encounters with the outdoors and wild environments while also working outside as a green keeper for 3 years then a building site labourer. Walking, running, cycling were routine while hill walking was a once in a blue moon day out that was tempting but testing logistically  Until the first munro and the seed was planted.
 
I am living in Fort William and have been since march 2011. Fort William in the west highlands of Scotland and is the hub of Lochaber, also known as the Outdoor Capital of the UK. I have been studying at West Highland College UHI since September 11' and I am part of the School of Adventure Studies in my 1st year of the Adventure Tourism Managment degree. Also I'm doing a trainee scheme with The Ice Factor Ltd. the National ice climbing centre and I work there as an instructor for rock climbing,ice climbing and run sessions on the high ropes course

In the 4 years since "the first munro" (now on 89 for any baggers wanting to compare sac's)  I have walked, climbed, canoed, cycled, explored and been on all kinds expeditions in the Scottish mountains, the Lake District, Peak District, the Carpathian mountains, High Tatra's and the Hinterland of Portugal. Every step of the way to now November 2012 has been a learning curve towards becoming experienced and working towards NGB's and I have just completed a 6 day Mountain Leader training course. I am not going to back date all my adventures and experiences until now but i am going to keep up as to date from now on of all the activities, adventures, epics(if any) and other related topics or things of interest.

One of may many adventures so far(No.2 gully, Ben Nevis)

Having just completed ML training I am in a confident mood and planning when and where to book my assessment. While also looking forward to getting out in the mountains this winter. So there will be many blogs to follow.

Enjoy
James