Its been a long time.......

So after leaving the west coast early 2014 and relocating back to the central belt of Scotland the last 2 years of working and operating in the outdoor industry have been amazing. Escaping the Fort William bubble was a must although I work more in the area now than I did living there but the time spent learning the local custom was not all a waste. Making good connections and networking with so many people I still call friends, colleagues and associates through work, climbing and the mountains.

I am lucky enough to say I now work at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena (EICA) on a part time permanent contract and have done since April 2015. This has me based in central Scotland while operating all over the UK working as a freelancer for a large and varied number of companies, providers, schools and local authorities delivering a wide range of activities and outdoor education. I am still on the path to making this a career......

So the blogging will begin again.....


The best way to catch up on the last 2 years is to check out;

Facebook,  https://www.facebook.com/JSOutdoors-140782706063579/
Instagram, https://www.instagram.com/jsoutdoors/

Also these highlights of the seasons work give a pictured insight into what exactly I was doing for work and fun each year.

2016 - coming soon.

WSP - https://vimeo.com/154779960

PMA - https://vimeo.com/119723841

2015 - https://vimeo.com/138633051
2014 - https://vimeo.com/109963076

Aoanch Eagach, Grim but Great

Yesterday looked promising early morning and after a bit of planning with Steve the previous night we headed down to Glencoe. We met up with Davie at the Clachaig and sorted out the logistics for the end of the day. Our aim was the Aonach Eagach ridge. What had looked like a promising forecast actually turned out to be pretty wet and warm but we headed up Am Bodach anyway. A very sweaty ascent soon had us on the summit of Meall Dearg and at the start of the ridge. I have done a number of traverses in summer but this was my first in winter.

Approaching the summit of  Meall Dearg

The snow under foot was very soft and wet which made things tricky on the first step down onto the ridge. We clipped into the tat and lowered on to the ridge.

Once on the ridge proper we moved along as quickly and freely as possible, soloing everything we felt was appropriate and using the rope when and where necessary. When using the rope on the pinnacles we moved together to keep the pace as fast as possible.

 
All day the banter and chat was great,spirits remained high even though the drizzle and clag stuck around.


I brilliant day with great company. And as we descended we got some views...

Busy week and a lot of catching up

Sunday 16th was a hit and a miss of a day. Highs and lows with the weather being typically Scottish and unpredictable. Me and Alfie decide to take a punt and go up to project crag, which turned out to be worthwhile but also a little detrimental to my mind set. Alfie managed to lead his project route after one try on a top rope. This was amazing to watch and be part of as well as being a bit on the scary side. I also had a number of attempts on Top rope at the route I am trying but became rather disheartened with the damp holds and repeated falls. Left feeling torn between elation for Alfie and annoyance at myself.

       

Very happy at this moment! NOT!!!

Monday 17th, I spent the day in Coire an t-sneachda to brush up and practice skills in preparation for WML assessment. I was out with a number of friends and other WML candidates; Alfie, Steve, Zoe, John and Tom. The weather was warm, wet and windy. Snow was heavy and wet but still managed to get through a good deal of skills while on the slopes of the Fiacall Ridge.

Monday evening was a beasting training session with Alfie at Kimbers bouldering wall for 2 hours of pain.

Tuesday 18th was a day of indoor climbing and training at local facility, doing some strength, endurance and distance training along with lead climbing and bouldering.

Thursday 20th Alfie, Rich B and myself went up the very pleasant Corbett Beinn Bhan, 796m which is near Glen Loy. a very straight forward day on the hill with the aim of practising navigation techniques and stretching the legs. The weather forecast was interesting and gave us enough to think about while out on the hill. Rich B and Alfie are both well on there way with preparing themselves for Summer ML assessments at some point this year and showed good knowledge, skills and techniques for navigation. While on the hill we discussed varying scenarios, possibilities and ideas for group management and leadership. The hill time was very useful for my personal preparation as there was more than enough snow on the ground along with an extremely cold, strong wind, heavy fresh snow fall and lack of visibility for the time spent above 600m which required navigation around the plateau and of the summit.



Thursday afternoon the three of us went to local indoor climbing facility and climbed, trained and got psyched. I am really noticing the benefit of training and the climbing routine, felt strong and enjoyed the session.

Rich B on the plod.

Friday 21st Rich B and myself went for a hill day. I wished to go higher than we had done the previous day to spend more time in winter conditions. We decided to go into Glen Nevis then from lower falls head up Allt coire a Mhusgain to the lochan below Sgurr an Lubhair, from there we planned to traverse along the Devils ridge to Sgurr a Mhaim. With fresh snow fall over night and a lot more forecast throughout the day we plodded into the ankle to knee deep snow line at roughly 450/500 meters. A lot of snow had fallen and been blown around in 24 hours.

Moving up broken ground to reach the ridge line

On the Ridge

From the lochan onwards we were in very poor visibility, navigation was required to confirm our location and also for a safe ascent onto the Devils ridge. We moved up broken ground avoiding the normal ascent path from the lochan and reached the bealach at the start of the ridge where the wind really picked up. We put crampons on here and had a chat about whether to commit to the ridge or not. We decided to go for it and made along the ridge line, the wind was gusting at 50mph which was a little more than forecast but didn't impede our progress to much. The ridge was very entertaining and interesting all the way along and kept us both on our toes until reaching the summit of Sgurr a Mhaim. On the final pull up to the summit the winds increased even more and began to slow progress down.

After reaching the summit in high spirits we took a quick snap then descended back down into Glen Nevis taking the shoulder that drops steeply down to lower falls.

Saturday 22nd and snow was still falling in the morning, a couple of friends; Kev Woods and Kev Mckeown made the trip up from Glasgow to have an attempt at going round the CMD arête onto Ben Nevis. We also hooked up with Tom and Zoe who I had been out with on Monday. The fresh snow fall hampered progress up CMD and made for a very slow ascent at roughly 900m the decision was made to bail on the attempt. Some of the group continued and completed the day but Kev Mck, Zoe and myself descended back down to the path with lots of good chat and laughter.

                     

Battling up and down the slopes of Carn Mor Dearg




Sunday 23rd I worked for myself teaching 2 novices to climb indoors at a local climbing facility. The day was great fun and really good progress was made as both clients had not done anything before.

Now that brings me to today. I met up with Steve at Nevis Range. The sun was splitting the sky but it looked windy up top with a lot of snow being moved around.  We took the Gondola up onto Aonach Mor and made good speed up to the plateau. We battled the very strong winds and enjoyed the views all around while we marched to the summit. After enjoying the panoramic scenery for some time, we had a discussion about continuing on to Aonach Beag but decided to return to the ski area via Aoanch an Nid. A brilliant day to be out on the mountains of Scotland and a nice change of conditions on the hill.

Rock Climbing and Abseiling, the start of the season...........

Today I worked for Active Highs delivering a rock climbing and abseiling session in the morning to a party of 14 who are in the area for a stag do. The group were from all over Scotland and there was a varying range of ages but all were up for a good laugh and to have some fun. The plan was to run the session as a simple as possible, while trying to involve the group with as many of the rope systems required. This worked well and was effective at moving all 14 guys through a harder bottom roped climb, an easier top rope set up and down an abseil line. There was also some hilarity with the groom to be being stripped down to some rather questionable boxer shorts and made to climb like so. After this some group members took the challenge of climbing blindfolded and one even abseiled while unable to see. All in all, a good fun session and a great start to the season.

A few routes in the sun and weather chasing all week.

Tuesday 11th I was in Glasgow for varying reasons but managed to hook up with a friend and climber Kevin Woods. We chatted about options and possible venues to get on some routes quickly and get some mileage on rock. We thought about inside at GCC but that would have be all sorts of wrong with the weather being so nice plus I had been there the previous evening to get pumped on some brilliant technical routes in the back corner, (6b,6b+,6c I think). After some chat we decided to go and have a look at Dunglass. We found that even after 3 days of dry and glorious weather that the routes we were after (sport) were still dripping. So another plan was quickly hatched, although I was enjoying the social wander in spring time sunlight I really wanted to get on some rock. Kevs local knowledge of his area is second to none and as we chatted all things climbing we decided to head for Auchinstarry Quarry. This venue is very much roadside cragging, not what I am use to at all. Fall out the car and your at the base of routes. We arrived as a group was finishing a session and another party was just getting started at top roping some interesting and hard looking route. A minor flaw in our plan was the lack of gear for trad but luckily kev knew the other party and I had a mix of cams and extenders that thankfully I had forgotten to remove after a previous trip. Kev pointed me in the direction of some routes to warm up on and we went at it. Pleasant climbing in hot sunshine.........was this really Scotland?

Myself(James) route Scream, Severe.

We climbed and chatted with other party, sharing Beta and laughs while enjoying the routes on offer. A very social affair with the sun at our backs. 

Routes climbed;

Scream - S

Promontory Direct - HVS

Nijinski - E5,6a

After a very good few days enjoying city culture and the climbing on offer it was time to head back to the Highlands and home. The drive on the a82 up Loch Lomond side and then through Glencoe is always impressive especially at 0700hrs on a day like Wednesday was, but this journey was also more........... while driving enjoying the views I had moment after moment of realisations that I was going home, and this was where I wanted to be, this is where I belong. Its been almost exactly 3 years since I made the decision to move up and live here permanently, a decision I am so thankful and happy I made. 

Its not been easy. To move away and leave so many memories, family, friends and work behind was challenging but in the time away I have learned a lot. I've made life long friends in what feels like 5 minutes, experienced highs, lows, hard times, good times and whole lot of climbing times. 

After a very enjoyable, nostalgic music appreciating and self contemplating drive back up to Fort William, I had to go to work. Which saw me spend most of the day indoors working at a computer or face to face with young people. This was difficult to stomach to say the least as it was a beautiful day outside and all I wanted to do was soak up the sun and enjoy the blue skies and views all around. I did manage to get out on an entertaining walk along the shore front for 30mins to collect stones for a future art project. Watch this space.........

One of the many stunning views on my doorstep.

When I finished work I made a quick call to Alfie and said lets go climbing, he had pre empted this by packing his climbing bag before going to work. I picked him up and we made a dash for project X. Psyched and buzzing from the glorious weather and the exciting prospect of trying new lines in the dry was almost to much! Also I had been awake from 0600, driven from Glasgow and also been at work. I was tired but had to get on this rock, with the day slipping away we set up a top rope and had a bash at our individual lines. THEY WERE AMAZING!!!! Although on a rope, the climbing is relatively hard and thin but flows and feels brilliant. We were so psyched by this that we got very carried away and started all kinds of daft chat, we packed up after a few attempts of each, on the walk out Alfie said he may go for the lead next time around............to be continued.  

Thursday 13th was a wash out on the west coast so we took a gamble and drove to Dunkeld. What a good punt this turned out to be. Polney crag was almost completely dry with a few minor streaks on some routes. Alfie has his SPA assessment soon and has such strong enthusiasm for climbing. We geared up and headed for the classic Cuticle Crack, Severe **. A brilliant route which Alfie led and a good start to the day. After we abseiled down Hairy Gully we headed over to Kestrel Crack,Severe ** and my lead. This is another fantastic route with bomber gear and great situations. It starts up a large crack that thins out up a slab. Onto a ledge with a brilliant thread runner just before moving up a steep wall on superb holds to the large flake. I became a bit stuck here with a high left foot and a massive rock over needed. I looked for alternatives but this awkward move eventually happened. Had bomber gear so was enjoying the movement. After this route we the went up to upper crag and Alfie led a route called The Trap, HVS 5b **. This was an entertaining route that required a real fight to get up. Good gear that was tested, and after a lot of laughs, abuse and motivation the route was climbed.

Alfie on Cuticle Crack, Severe**

A good day trad climbing was finished off by a quick hit at Bennybeg near Crieff. We went seeing as it was en route home for a few hours to gain some fore arm pump and clip a few bolts for fun. We ended up climbing well into darkness on routes at grade 4,5,5+ & 6a with the moon lighting up the crag, so we had been climbing all day and made a good mess of our arms and fingers time for another drive up the a82! 

On the lead, Kestrel Crack,S**. Looking at big flake

Today I spent some time preparing for up coming work and had a chance to visit some local areas. I also managed to get psyched up enough to train at Calluna and I am glad I did. I really want to improve my climbing in general and I guess motivating myself for getting a basic fitness and strength level is required. Alfie's infectious enthusiasm got me to Kimbers bouldering wall and then carried me through the initial pain and struggle. Once in a rhythm and pattern of training the motivation and desire to push it came and I enjoyed the sets and reps of moves, lapping and using finger board and campus board. I aim to climb more than I train but every little helps

A quick silly selfie on lead. Just for laughs

Alfie on The Trap HVS 5b **

CLIMBING

Stumbling upon rocks, spying new talents and inspiring climbing.

Last week was a week of discovery and hard graft. The grim mountain conditions forced thoughts of winter mountain days and climbing off the list of what to do. With the summer season and crag work just round the corner the mind wandered to the thought of rock climbing outdoors. Indoor training was still consistent but Thursday & Friday there was a chance to do some prep work for Active Highs. Myself and Alfie did some vertical gardening cleaning, scrubbing and weeding a crag that will be used for intro and fun sessions throughout the season. We also stumbled upon what will be known as project X for the time being by chance while wandering around Fort Augustus. A brilliant piece of blank rock that has climb me all over it. Watch this space............

Saturday and Sunday I spent time at a local climbing facility teaching, instructing, coaching 2 local youths who have definitely got the potential and ability for climbing. With the help and support of some of their parents both days ran well. Hopefully I am at the beginnings of something for the future.

On the Saturday one of the new talents even completed their first ever lead climbs. It was exceptional to bear witness to as she is only in Primary 5. The aim of my involvement is to inspire, inform and assist both youths in climbing along with being a mentor and coach for competitions in the future. Fingers crossed this talent will keep the psyche and show other Lochaber youths how they can be involved with the outdoors on their door step. Sunday was all about climbing, both youths (Primary 5) showed brilliant progress physically and mentally and are almost operating as independent climbers by already doing the following ; Tying on, Pre climb safety checks, Belaying, and lowering. They still need a watch full eye but are almost fully fledged climbers with a positive outlook on youth climbing in Lochaber.

Searching for some dry rock, and found the sunshine!

Even more to think about other than climbing,ropes and rack

                     

Tuesday was spent mostly in a car driving from Fort William, Granton on Spey, Aviemore, Pitlochry and back looking for dry rock, in march............ there was reason behind this madness. The aim for today was to get Lindsay outside and on some real rock. She is battling a life threatening condition and you can find out all about it on her blog. She has set herself a goal and is charging full speed at trying to achieve it. I have offered to help and support when and where I can and today was about having fun, getting some photographs an video footage and of course climbing!

Not the only shadows of the day but the sun shone all day 

We ended up at Creag na h-eighe in Perthshire, not far from Pitlochry at around 1330hrs. It is a stunning crag in a belting location and our number 1 priority for location was walking distance and ease of access. The logistics of going climbing with Lindsay is different as she requires Oxygen carried in tanks to help her breath. The challenge is interesting with a whole different mindset and approach required. After a leisurely wander to the crag in beams of sunshine with heaps of laughter and excitement. We got on the shorter routes at the far end of the crag. This was a first outdoor climbing for Lindsay in a long time but all her indoor training has paid off, she moved comfortably and looked strong seconding up Heather Wall-Severe,4a and Wee Arete-VS,4c. She decided to second Wee Bremmer, VD before having a go at leading it. She climbed the route solidly and with no difficulties, except for the obvious. An interesting and very different challenge to climbing and all in all a good day of adventure, hysterics and banter with some good climbing added in to the mix.

Have to mention Alfie for being a great source of enthusiasm and fun on the day. And some stylish climbing!

Alfie on Wee Arete, VS,4c